Dabbsterinn Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 So, I guess it's time for me to make a post on my home made ASO it's made from mystery steel, they call it steel 32 at work, but im not sure if that's the full name or just an abbreviation of it's full name. It's not the strongest thing, but it holds up that one is from the day i brought it home, first day as a proud ASO owner my only real problem with it is that it doesn't have a full horn or a hardy hole I don't have any current pictures of it but I'll take them next time I go there. In that almost a year I've had it, I've only had to grind down the surface twice due to hammer marks It's 42 kg/92 lbs and I don't remember the dimensions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Hey Dabb, that home made ANVIL shows you have the FIRE in your belly to learn and you won't let the lack of a 'real' anvil stop you. I remember your posts about trying to acquire an anvil that was too dear for your pocket. If I was your Dad I'd be proud you went ahead solved the problem on your own instead of sniveling about how you can't, because you can, and THAT is worth a shipload of 'real' anvils................ B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'm not sure what a real anvil is supposed to look like, but I do know that folks in your area 500 years ago were using blocks of iron that looked very similar to what you have there! If Vikings could make pattern-welded swords on an anvil like yours, there's no reason you can't do the same. Hardy holes are not critical, but you can take a chisel/file to that round hole and make it square. Again, the only thing stopping you is you. Don't grind down the face when it gets dinged up. Any work-hardening that's occurred is being removed when you grind it away. Instead, stop dinging the anvil, and when a ding does happen, peen around it to minimize it. Ideally, you should peen the entire surface to maximize it's hardness. Or, find a local welder that can apply some hard-facing rod for you! You're ahead of the game. Don't sell yourself short or think that you're not in the ballpark because you don't have some giant london-pattern anvil. Do an image search for 'post anvil' on the internet and marvel at just how many folks are using anvils similar to yours. http://users.stlcc.edu/mfuller/foteviken2008forge.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmith Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Nice work, I have anvils in my own shop now (but started with a piece of train track), but at work I couldn't convince the boss that we needed one so I made an improvised anvil from 2inch thick bar for the top and welded on a really heavy wall square tube down the side for a hardy, and a short section of 4" round stock for a single radius "horn" mounted on 4" round tube, within a week of seeing it used constantly he bought it from me, it prefer it to all rr track anvils Ive tried, I regularly use my post anvil made from a piece of axle for blade forging instead of my London pattern anvils, The main thing I would say for a smaller anvils is, fasten it really securely to prevent tipping, and make the base under it as solid heavy and rigid as possible to maximize the work you can do on top and to stop it from ringing too loud so you don't make yourself deaf. Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Looks sturdy enough. Pretty cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ichudov Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 My opinion is that you did an awesome job. Great torch skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.