SoCal Dave Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I had hardfaced an arena rake that has a comb and some round pins that is pulled by a tractor around an arena. I didn't watch the pins wearing closely and I need to build them back up to their original length. We are talking about a1/2" to 1' amount of wear. Question: Do I build the pins back up with 6011 or 6013 rod, and then finish it off with the hardfacing rod, or do I build the entire amount back up with hardfacing rod, (Stoody 35)? I have and old lincoln 220 AC arc welder and we are talking about 20 pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Here's what the literature I found for Stoody 35 lists... Welding Procedures/Characteristics: Can be applied AC or DC, either polarity (reverse preferred). Use straight polarity to increase deposition rate. Can be applied in stringer or weave beads. A two layer deposit should be made to assure proper chemistry for best wear results. It doesn't however give any info on maximum deposit depth or info on buildup. In general all the buildup I've done to wear items was usually done with 7018. I guess 6013 could also be used, but it's not a rod I generally have on hand. 6011 wouldn't be my 1st choice for buildup unless there was no way to prep a really rusty, dirty part. Welds with 6011 are nowhere near as ductile as welds with 7018. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Do they have a 7018 rod I can us with my old lincoln AC welder? Also, if I made a two layer deposit with the Stoody rod, that might equal 1/2" and so for those pins that are only a 1/2" short that would be enough. Thanks DSW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Yes they make 7018 AC specifically for AC buzz boxes. It has additives in the flux to help it cross over from DC+ to DC- and back for AC use. You have to try it and see if you like it. Some guys used to some 7018 DC only rods like Lincoln Excalibur dislike the 7018AC rods. Others don't mind 7018AC. It's been way too many years since I've had to run it so I can't remember exactly how the 7018AC runs. 7014 would be my 2nd choice. It's a bit less ductile than 7018, but a bit better than 6013. It tends to be my generic repair rod for noncritical stuff since it stores better than 7018 does. 7014 runs nice on AC. It's an easy rod to run as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 It sounds like 7014 rod is what I need since we are only dragging arenas of DG and sand, no rocks. Great info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Typical procedure that I have run into with this is either 7018 (or 8018, 9018, 11018, etc depending on the strength of base material) then GRIND TO SHAPE/SIZE (you don't want to be the guy grinding hard surfacing) then hard surface. Depending on the type of surfacing rod you get, only single to three layers are used because of cracking issues. Check with the manufacturer before you do. There are also filler materials made that is meant for building up a surface before it is to be hard faced. Again, check with the manufacturer or the welding supplier for proper filler for the application you will be subjecting it to before it goes back into service. *Just as a reminder* hard surfacing is not a magical "fix-all" to wear issues, just a way to help prolong the wear that is inevitable. -Hillbilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 We rebuilt a few beat up buckets on excavators. The first order of business was replacing the missing and deformed plate structure, then we hard faced the cropped and inserted areas. Hard facing reduces wear on the existing components, its not really the base metal. I guess you could make the whole thing out of chromemolly for durability but it would be extraordinarily expensive. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forborg Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Is it possible to simply replace the pins on the rake? This sounds like a harrow rake, and i've seen harrow rake teeth thats been make of high carbon steel for less than 2 dollars each. Hardfacing would seem to be more money than it could be worth if the pins are easy to replace new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 Using hardfacing rod is the cheapest way to go. I can hardface the pins for just pennies each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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