Need help!!!! Thumb Latch door handle

[David Kailey]

I have been contacted by a client to make an 18" door handle with a thumb latch and a deadbolt and a knob on the inside. But he wants modern internal parts any one recommend some door handle hardware that i can toss the plate and handle but use the guts?

[Jim Coke]

Greetings Dave,

 

You got to be clearer....  A thumb latch on one side that's a push and lift action and than a knob on the other that's a twist action.  ??????

 

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

[JimsShip]

You mean something like this one?
 

[Jim Coke]

Greetings guys,

 

 

If that one is what the customer wants ..... Look at the price.... I'll just bet they want the cheap version  Ya know hand forged...LOL 

 

Good luck on that one...  

[JimsShip]

That was just the first one I googled. (I had never seen one like it myself, i was thinking it was a thumb latch like on a gate)

They do make them, i'm sure you'll be able to find a cheaper version of it!

[jimcraig58]

I recently had the same problem. Forged hardware is too heavy for the door sets you can buy at your local big box stores. It will not stand up. You can buy heavy duty mortised hardware from Baldwin. This is very good, but also very expensive. I also found one made buy a company called Emtec that was very good and much cheaper than Baldwin. It was still very expensive. I found these at a local door shop.  

[Neil Blythin]

Define 'very expensive'...

 

I previously worked as a locksmith, and was always dismayed by how cheap people are. They'll spend thousands and thousands filing their homes with all the best creature comforts - big televisions, high-end appliances, etc. Then they balk at spending a couple of hundred on the hardware necessary to secure their homes (locks and other door hardware).  A few hundred dollars for quality door hardware is not expensive when you consider the amount of use and abuse it sees in its service life, and consider what it's securing / protecting.  Door hardware, in particular handles, are also the single biggest 'point of contact' between the person and the architecture of their home. It's the part of the building you touch most often,

 

Don't ever allow someone to 'cheap out' on door hardware. Tell them what it'll cost for you to make this thing, and do it right. If they balk, let them walk away and go get that $40 piece of junk off the shelf at the big box store.

 

The Baldwin hardware is quality stuff. I certainly wouldn't opt for anything less, IMHO.

 

Cheers,

Neil

[Frank Turley]

It's been a while since I've done this kind of work. The last time, I went to my local locksmith and we looked at the Baldwin catalog together. There are many combos. You want a cylinder lock, key outside and turnpiece inside...along with thumb latch outside and knob inside. You are going to make the "trim," so-called. I assume you are going to make it "Norfolk style" with the 18" escutcheon plate. I think that you can buy the guts without trim. Make sure the locksmith knows what's going on. I think that you will also be working with a modern day spring latch, which sits proud of the door edge. You've got to know the door thickness, and figure out the backset. The stile width and backset will dictate the size of your escutcheon. Without seeing what is available, it is difficult to advise. Sometimes, you can order edge trim that surrounds the bolt and spring latch in flat black instead of brass or bright steel.I remember when I made trim and turnpiece for an unkeyed deadbolt, I would forge the square sectioned actuator as part of the turnpiece and insert it through the hole in my homemade "rose" (small escutcheon). I then put a washer over the actuator and oxy or mig welded it so that it couldn't back out.

 

Another consideration. Your turnpiece and knob may be rubbing against the flat face of the escutcheon and making circular shiny marks. In the past, I have very slightly bossed up that area. The hole is centered on the hardly noticeable boss.

 

I did not have a drill large enough to drill through the big escutcheon in order to accommodate the cylinder, so I did it the old fashioned way of oxy gas-hatchet, cold chisel, die grinder, and file. For the sake of appearance it helps if you can countersink the hole edge, using a reamer or suchlike. It was time consuming.

 

Your thumb latch actuator will be a short, rectangular sectioned lift, whereas the old time ones went through the door as a handle. However, I'm not sure of the door knob. On my work, when we had door knob inside and outside, it went on a square spindle, which you can still purchase. The spindle has an oddball thread, 3/8-20. If the knob is made for a spindle, it can be centrally drilled and threaded. The 3/8-20 tap would be specially ordered. Once the door knob is screwed on, you'll need one or two set screws to fix it in place. I used 1/4-20 Allen head.

 

A lock cover can be made to cover the shiny cylinder/keyhole. It can either pivot and swing sideways or it can be hinged for lifting.

 

I hope I haven't been too unclear. In any event, you will be doing lots of problem solving, careful measurement, and layout. What else is new in blacksmithing?

 

Buena Suerte.

 

Sayings and Cornpone

"The trouble with this country is that there are too many people going about saying, 'The trouble with this country is--' "

     Sinclair Lewis

 

 

 

There will be lots of measuring

[David Kailey]

Thanks Frank. and all

I contacted a lock smith and i think i am headed in a direction that should get me there.