Jump to content
I Forge Iron

is this a "correct" parts list for a Z Burner?


Guest adhamh

Recommended Posts

Guest adhamh

Hi All,

 

I've tired to contact Larry, but haven't gotten any response.  I thought I'd go a head and try to make my own Z Burner.

 

Is this the correct parts list for it?

 

1 - 3/4" standard pipe 8 to 9 inches long with threads on one end. 
1 - 1 1/4" wye
1 - 1 1/4 to 3/4" bushing
1 - 1/8" x 3 1/2" schedule 80 pipe nipple 
1 - 1 1/4" std. black pipe plug 
1 -  .035 or .045  contact tip 
 

I read on a different forum that the 1/8" nipple should be longer.  Is that correct?  If so how much longer?

 

Do any of these pieces need to be manufactured by ward or will anvil be okay?

 

I have not included the 2" long flare.  Is it possible to use a reducing tee instead, if the 3/4" pip is threaded on both ends?  I believe the function of this piece is basically to protect my kaowool from coming into direct contact with the flame and burning up...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is about right.

You'll also need something to work as a set screw to hold the nipple inplace.

The 1/8" nipple can be any length, this length is probably your minimum.

Go to the electrical department of your big box store and look for a threaded coupler for the 3/4" pipe. It'll be shiny, most likely, so you'll need to pickle it in muiratic acid to eat the zinc off.

The 3/4" pipe will be threaded on both ends - that's how it comes commercially in the big box stores.

The z burner is a good little burner - but it's loud.

J


The threaded coupler will be your flare nozzle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if others have had this problem but when I went to cut the therads into the 1/8 nipple for the welding tip I discovered there wasn't enough meat to cut the threads deep enough to prevent leakage. The solution I used was to gently swage about 3/4'' on the end of the nipple with a tennon tool that just happened to fit the bill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if others have had this problem but when I went to cut the therads into the 1/8 nipple for the welding tip I discovered there wasn't enough meat to cut the threads deep enough to prevent leakage. The solution I used was to gently swage about 3/4'' on the end of the nipple with a tennon tool that just happened to fit the bill.

 

That's why it needs to be schd 80 and even then it can be thin. When I'm shopping fittings I need to tap I take along the correct drill bit and use it as a go/nogo gauge.

 

I'm afraid that's about all the help I can be with one of Larry's burners.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...