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Satanite question


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So i'm building my first gas forge, and im currently applying satanite to the inswool walls, and trying to follow the instructions on how to set the satanite after its been applied.

Is it bad that the satanite is looking black and burnt in some places after I run the burner a bit? Or is it supposed to get like that? I have 193 cubic inches of interior forge space, and i was using a 3/4 burner on 3 psi, and i was only running it for a little bit at a time, attempting to follow the instructions given at hightemptools.com. Was I running it for too long or is it ok to look burnt?

thanks

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I've never used Satanite but haven't heard bad things about it.

 

How long did you let it dry before firing? What firing procedure did you use?

 

I let washes dry thoroughly even if I have to hang a light bulb in the forge. Then I give it a low first fire, barely let it get to low red heat and let it cool completely. This is basically a bisque firing, drives out any residual moisture, letting it cool gives it a chance to let moisture escape from the refractory wool. Then I fire it to bright red and let it hold for half an hour or more, ITC-100 needs as much heat ass you can generate. I let it cool again so I can take a good look at the interior, if it looks good, it's ready to roll. If it needs patching I try to determine what happened, sometimes something is on or in the wool that unsticks it.

 

That's just what I do. I don't know diddly about Satanite beyond not hearing bad things about it. the above is more an example of what I mean by firing procedure than an example of what YOU should do. The first thing you should do is follow the directions for Satanite.

 

You are aware you have about 2x the burner you need for the volume of your forge. Yes? From the pics I've seen your burner looks to be well tuned and could be hitting in the 3,200f range in that little chamber. You just may be using too much burner. when mine is happy with the conditions, temp, humidity, barometric pressure, etc. I'll have a puddle of melted 3,000f fire brick under the burner. It used to be largely borax but if that was what was there it'd have burned through the fire brick long ago. the borax has burned off long ago, no sodium yellow is the final evidence it's ONLY melted fire brick.

 

I don't know if it means anything concerning Satanite but there is nothing but white left in my forge. Any black is long gone.


Frosty The Lucky.

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So I still have yet to apply the ITC-100, but I tried out the forge and let it run for a bit and it seems to be working fine, at least in my unlearned opinion:p on 7 psi the interior turned orange, there was some dragons breath but not as much as I anticipated, the outside of the forge only started boiling water droplets after an hour or so of run-time, so I put a piece of steel in it, a 2' long rusty bolt, and it got to yellow heat after idk 5-8 minutes, so I followed advice I had been given and tried to taper it to a pyramidal point, which worked suprisingly well, and then I rounded the square taper and that didnt go as well, in that I eventually got it round but it started spiraling fairly quickly despite my efforts to first take the square and make it octagonal, and thereafter bisecting the angle of each corner with my blows. I think the hammer was too heaver.. I have a 3 lb and a 1.5, I started off with the 1.5, then tried the 3 for the rounding and I found it, reasonably, much harder to control, and switched back to the 1.5, and that seemed to work great for everything else. After rounding the point I began drawing out the bolt into thin lengths, attempting to make a pair of tongs, since the pliers I'm currently using are quite uncomfortable. I shall now exhaust the section here on heat treating and tempering so I can know what to do and what I'm talking about, in regards to making something like tongs which it seems must be strong but somewhat flexible. If I were to make the majority of the arms round, how thin should I make them at the center, assuming the tips would be slightly thinner than the midpoint, which in turn would be slightly thinner than right before the arms reach the main body?

 

my forge

post-38555-0-86418300-1369192123_thumb.j

 

and for critique, if anyone is so inclined:

 

heres the square taper

post-38555-0-76659500-1369189573_thumb.j

 

heres the round one

post-38555-0-28389300-1369189576_thumb.j

 

and heres what ive done on the tongs so far (half of one handle)

post-38555-0-89527500-1369189578_thumb.jpost-38555-0-44721200-1369189581_thumb.jpost-38555-0-58078100-1369189571_thumb.j

 

thanks:)

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