Scrap Metal Ideas/Torsion Bar/Coil Springs

[nutinauniversalshell]

I have acquired 2 coil springs (shocks still attached as the nut was attempted to be torched off but failed)...skipping everything else I'm just going to start with questions:

 

1) What's the best way to get the coil springs out from the shock assembly when unbolting isn't an option? (I don't have a welder or plasma cutter either)

2) Are any parts of a shock good to make stuff from?

 

Also have a 5+ foot torsion bar that is pretty beefy:

 

3) Good projects to make from the torsion bar? ( was thinking hammers but that's quite a few hammers)

 

Axles (chevy 6 bolt not busted)...big heavy and somewhat thick

 

4) Sell them or try to use them? I should have a source for busted axles now too.

 

Also have a little car axle with the boots and joints...

 

5) Best way to get the rubber and all off so I can use them?

6) Suggested uses?

 

Did get some real thin metal pieces from a friend too....might be 1/4 inch if it was round...

 

7) Good projects?

 

Cast iron sink with porcelain...

 

8) Good project for a forge?

 

Lawn Mower blade....was thinking Big knife/machete at some point unless something else is recommended that would be cool.

 

And unrelated to the above, I met another member (not sure of username) today to look at a small anvil. 60 lb vulcan with HORRIBLE edges (he had an 80 lb too that was pretty bad). I may deal with him on one or both but in such shape I don't really know what is reasonable....I wouldn't use them but hold them until I learn to repair anvils or find someone willing too....anyway I may try to set him up with one of my anvils and HOPEFULLY we will get together and do some forging too. He is making knives from rail spikes and I think if we can get better acquainted we can both learn as we are so new to this and combined make a good team to do projects (his forge is huge and I have BIG anvils)...might even alternate as strikers if all works out. Just thought this would be a cool thing to mention so others in Cookeville/Algood/Baxter/Gainsboro/Livingston/Sparta might want to try and get together or setup some kind of meeting. It would be great to have experienced and inexperienced alike who would want to share some knowledge and make some cool stuff ;) And the neatest part to me...he was one house down from where I grew up and his daughter plays with my cousin's daughter (who now has my grandma's old house).

[Glenn]

1) Those springs are under a lot of pressure. Take them to a garage that had a spring compressor and have them remove the spring.

 

2) I use the pistons for chisels etc. Be careful of the oil contained in the cylinder. Catch it and dispose of it properly.

 

3) 4) 6) Throw it to the side so you will have it when you find a project needing that type metal.

 

5) A knife will remove most of the rubber boot. A pair of pliers will undo the clamp so you can get to the rest.

 

8) Forge project. Look up a brake drum forge or the 55 Forge. Both are easy to make and are from proven materials.

 

 

When anvil shopping, it is just as important to know when to walk away without an anvil as to walk away with an anvil.

[Francis Trez Cole]

I would second what glenn said Springs = danger most junk yards want you to unbolt. if you look around you can probably find springs and torsion bars already loose.    

[David Gaddis]

Most big torsion bars such as Chev Tahoe, surburbans, etc has a diameter of approx 1.3 inches. Those have some rather large hex forgings on the ends that offer some very good potential for anvil tools. Torch them off to an appropriate length then forge them to fit the hardy. A friend could be a necessity  here...as a striker. That would leave you with a fairly flat anvil tool to make other items from...such a a veining block for feathers or leaves. Total project time about 40 minutes if using accomplished striker...all year if working on by yourself and little experience.

 

Some persons would throw that spring assy into a nice fire to allow the spring deform under heat, however there could be some issues with proper disposal of fluid within the cylinder, as well as other dangers....Just saying. A car shop should be able to disassemble in a few minutes..carry some trinkets to sweeten the deal. Mechanics love those key fobs made like leaves!

[nutinauniversalshell]

I dont have any trinkets to bring yet. I know of an exhaust shoip that I might be able to get to help me with a couple of these things, so I will have to go by there someday soon.

 

The torsion bar does have a hex end so it may be from one of the vehicles you mentioned.

 

I think I may take a trip to the salvage yard one day and see about springs, torsion bars, axles, etc....plus a couple parts for the wife's car.

 

The most important project right now should be to get the forge loaded up and to the exhaust shop so I can get some plumbing installed and possibly a mount for the blower (I found a blower on a stand yesterday and it would have been perfect, but it was twice what I would have paid).....then I can fire the forge :)

[Rich Hale]

If you start at the very basics of smithing. mild steel shaped to all of the ways suggested, and then when you can simply heat steel and forge to a shape you have in mind on a regular basis it will be time to move forward.  In down times you can research steps to move on. Then back in the shop to learn new steels and how it moves and wot it can do wehn you tell it and how that happens.

A huge key to your future is to work with others in a group that includes someone skilled to help you with those basics. Poor body mechanics and techniques may not only become habits hard to break later but also limit you ability to move metal and increase odds of injuries. Local smithing grouips or enrolling in a school will pay off big time later if you get with good folks.

This basic training will answer a lot of the questions you put in this thread.