Gundog48 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Last weekend I started work on an a bearded axe based on James Austin's DVD. It has been a rather difficult for me as I work alone, so turning a 2"x4" bar into an axe is very difficult. I've been doing almost all the work with a 7lb sledge which I'm forced to use one-handed which still works surprisingly well. The bulk of it has been done by striking tools as in the video. Jim was incredibly helpful, both by providing such a fantastic DVD at such good value, and by offering some advice on how best to achieve what I want. I was concerned with the fact that he split the axe to receive the cutting bit after drawing it out to 3/16" which is possible with oxyacetylene, but incredibly difficult on the forge. He suggested I make the cut before drawing it out, then reopening it once drawn which has worked brilliantly, I just have to be careful not to get to welding heat. I've cheated a bit by slitting and drifting as opposed to splitting and welding. I did this to simplify it as this is my first axe (and second blade at all) so I wanted to get the hang of shaping the blade before I got fancy, plus I don't have the top and bottom tools to do it properly. I'm going to make a mandrel once I've finished this to make it possible to do something similar next time. This is where I am so far, I was hoping for a bit of guidance as to how to improve. My current plan is to draw out the throat to thin the material near the eye, finish drawing out the beard using fullers, refine the shape of the blade and beard, draw out the edge, weld the cutting bit, taper down to point, straighten throat and reopen the eye fully. Any glaring problems you see that I can fix now? I don't really like the aesthetic of the slit and drift eye as it makes it impossible to get a really nice curve, but it'll have to do for this one! Currently collecting materials for a small powerhammer, that'll make my life so much easier for things like this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 The longer you make the edge before welding the bit in, the longer a weld you have to get *right*. Also the thinner the stock the more likely to damage it by overheating when you do a weld if you are not an experienced forge welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gundog48 Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Yeah, the guide recommends taking it down to 3/8 then spreading the very edge further, not sure if that's a good idea in my case, I think I'll do it as is. The cut goes quite deep, it was 1/2" before drawing it out, so it should be longer now, so there is bound to be a solid enough weld, but I plan to have many passes at it anyway, get it nicely joined and neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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