October 5, 201213 yr http://i.ebayimg.com/t/New-2-Burner-LP-Propane-Gas-Forge-Knifemaking-Welding-Blacksmith-/00/$(KGrHqEOKpwE4kVYPpIJBOMHyG3f4Q~~0_12.JPG I dont really have a stand for this forge that would let me use bricks as doors . I guess i would rather have a built in door and i already ordered kao wool for it. How do i make this work? are there plans on how to do this?
October 5, 201213 yr You will need to make a door that can be left partially open to alloy stock to protrude from it. Many ways to accomplish that from a flip down door with hinges on the top many times with a mousehole along the bottom always open. To twin side doors with hinges on the side allowing you to leave one open---think about making them un-symetrical with a wide side and a narrow side to allow you to choose the one that's best for your project. If that's not a blown forge you may need to make sure there is always a gap to deal with back pressure issues. Most doors will require some sort of attachments to the face of the forge.
October 5, 201213 yr Do you weld ? Mig is good for sheet metal work. The reason that I ask is that being able to weld will broaden the options available. Especially for fabrication of hinges. The sheet metal pan for the door can be fabricated accurately using a few homemade tools. One of which is a "finger break" which is a length of angle Iron with a section of one leg removed from the middle and then bent back on itself. I think there is a posting of one on this site so search. In the meantime I will help look aroung for some references.
October 5, 201213 yr Here are pictures of a finger break fabricated from a length of steel angle. It is as shown in a vice with an additional C clamp to hold the work piece secure while forming thre break. Please note that the work piece is 14 gage steel, which is much thicker than needed for a forge furnace door, but shows what this simple tool is capable of. This finger break will form two of the breaks needed to form a door pan. There is an additional proceedure needed to form the end breaks to close the pan.
October 5, 201213 yr Author Do you weld ? Mig is good for sheet metal work. The reason that I ask is that being able to weld will broaden the options available. Especially for fabrication of hinges. The sheet metal pan for the door can be fabricated accurately using a few homemade tools. One of which is a "finger break" which is a length of angle Iron with a section of one leg removed from the middle and then bent back on itself. I think there is a posting of one on this site so search. In the meantime I will help look aroung for some references.no i dont weld :( i hoping to change that soon with classes. I have welded once and found it complicated (stick welding) and it was tricky because the rod always got stuck on the work.
October 5, 201213 yr Author You will need to make a door that can be left partially open to alloy stock to protrude from it. Many ways to accomplish that from a flip down door with hinges on the top many times with a mousehole along the bottom always open. To twin side doors with hinges on the side allowing you to leave one open---think about making them un-symetrical with a wide side and a narrow side to allow you to choose the one that's best for your project. If that's not a blown forge you may need to make sure there is always a gap to deal with back pressure issues. Most doors will require some sort of attachments to the face of the forge.what is a blown forge?
October 5, 201213 yr OK, no welding. So you are limited to some sort of commercial hinge fastened with screws or possibly rivets. I would locate the hinges so that the door would swing up and rest on top of the forge or be configured to lean in an open condition against the forge . From the look of your forge that might be tricky. I would look at offset hinges for full size doors as a possible solution. To close the door pan ( that is make the end breaks) clamp short angles or wood blocks between the two breaks made with the finger break, and make the break. Most forge doors on small forges do not close the opening completely. I normally leave an opening at the bottom for sliding bars in and out while the forge door is in the closed position. It is handy to size the opening so that a fire brick placed at the bottom can act to further reduce/adjust or close the opening. A loose brick sort of acting as a sliding door.
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