SamT Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Got my burner burning! Could not find a Ward reducer tee, or any reducer tee for that matter, so I used a straight 1 1/4 tee with a 3/4 reducer. Yes... That is duct tape... I'm good like that. Tried a 3/4 coupler screwed on the end, but it wouldn't hold the flame, thats 1 1/4" DOM scrap just slid on. Lit it and slid it till it smoothed out, then sealed the back with duct tape. THIS IS ONLY A TEST, I PROMISE! I'll likely try a 3/4 - 1 1/4 bell, easy to replace if it works! Another problem is that my mig tip isn't straight. Didn't wanna bother with the lathe, so I used the hand drill. Only off by about 10* Still roars like a jet though! Will fix that as well as soon as I can buy another plug... will use lathe next time. This is my regulator, $20 at tractor supply. It's a Mr Heater 0-60psi. The Ghetto flameholder in the first picture will hold the flame with this little guy cranked wide open! Will take fire pics tonight, only thing visible now is heat monkeys and boards that burst into flame within a second of being put 2' from the end of the burner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 As promised, pictures of the nighttime burn. Somewhat less than max pressure. On up there, not quite sure how high but i think the regulator had just a little of its 60psi left in reserve, need to get the guage on. Yellow flame at the tip of blue is dad playing with a stick. Thing just roars when its running this high! Quite surprising that it runs like this with my drunken mig tip, sloppy injector tube fit and BO-BO (technical term) flare. happy camper. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Just noticed the pictures arent clickable. At least to me, so I'll try a attatching files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 THIS IS ONLY A TEST, I PROMISE! Testing is one thing, but even testing MUST BE DONE SAFELY. Testing has a time limit, after which it becomes usage. There are reasons they do not use duct tape on pressurized systems, and do not use duct tape around propane. I would strongly suggest all testing be done outside, with proper fire extinguishers and personal safety equipment. You need to have a friend, a cohort, or someone not involved in the project standing a safe distance away holding a phone with 911 on speed dial.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 So duct tape where the burner stays cool requires EMS on hand? Like I said, I just wanted to see if the burner made fire, and it does, so it won't be lit again till it has the permanent flare. Probably won't be lit again till I have the injector remade straight. Has anyone tried putting a grill ignitor or spark plug in the 3/4 tube? Would the flame catch and blow out to the flare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 So duct tape where the burner stays cool requires EMS on hand? If the duct tape connection were to leak or develop a leak, , , , , IForgeIron is about being SAFE in all that you do. If we always stress safety at every level, and every time, Others read the caution and, we hope, take the advice. You may know how to do things safely, but others reading the post may not know. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Ok, sorry about that. The duct tape is off of the burner now, and I wont re-light it until I can get a proper flare worked out. I understand someone may see what I did and think that duct tape is a suitable hith-temp material... That could turn out bad. Just to be clear to everyone - DUCT TAPE IS NOT ACCEPTABLE, THIS BURNED JUST LONG ENOUGH TO TAKE PICS AND I SHUT IT DOWN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 My burner is complete! A 3/4-1 1/4 bell reducer works beautifully as a flare on this one. It holds the flame right to the top end of my 60 psi regulator. I'll repeat that duct tape anywhere on a 150k+ btu anything is dumb! I was corrected before anything catastrophic happened, you may not be so lucky. For those interested, my 3/4 tube is a 10" nipple, screwed into the reducer on the tee on one end, and screwed into the 3/4-1 1/4 bell on the other, no cutting required. I think maybe the internal threads on the reducer help to create tubulence, so it works even though its much more than a 1:12 taper. A 3/4-1 reducer may work, but hey, mines working now so I don't wanna mess with it. My forge will have a 2" burner socket, so the size is no biggie for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 The first burner that I built was similar t yours. It worked well. I installed a circular sheet metal air gate over the combustion air intake. I used a single screw so that it could be rotated to adjust the amount of air being drawn into the burner. If you find that the burner is producing and oxidizing flame resulting heavy scale this is a simple modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Thanks Dan. I'm going to get the forge built and see whether it needs it or not. Right now I can't get to a yellow flame idle before it flashes back in the tube unless I partially choke the intake, so maybe a chokeplate will let me find a medium - so it'll idle down and still go full blast with good mix. Idle with open intake may be better in the forge, going to test on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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