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Bushog blades


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The late Houston Fairchild was the local smith I always referred this work to. He used coal fire and a LG 100 like mine. I watched him once, and chickened out. He was holding the blade in tongs and used a top tool to bevel the blade. Like me had flat dies in his hammer. I really dont like trying top tool work in a Little Giant.Does anyone have a suggestion that would be simpler, safer,and easier?

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You can make a taper refiner that will bolt or clamp to your bottom die. I will describe it breifly; in addition to a band which wraps around/attaches to your bottom die, there would be two upright sections, perpendicular to the die, at each end. These will each have one through hole of apropriate diameter. Positioned between the uprights and pinned to them through the holes is a peice of large diameter round bar cut in half length wise, a half round. The half round can rotate sufficiently to enable a taper of any angle to be worked by the tup flat die.

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Mac it does have a sow block. pics of the LG 100 are in gallery section a "smithy" post by Joshua M..I reall hope to convince the guy to go to someone else, and told him to check with LAMA or the Gulfcoast blacksmiths assoc. any in IFI wants this job send me your contact info.

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The late Houston Fairchild was the local smith I always referred this work to. He used coal fire and a LG 100 like mine. I watched him once, and chickened out. He was holding the blade in tongs and used a top tool to bevel the blade. Like me had flat dies in his hammer. I really dont like trying top tool work in a Little Giant.Does anyone have a suggestion that would be simpler, safer,and easier?



Doh! Sorry about the silent reply, above.

Rusty, I always used a hand hammer- 6 pound for the heavy work and a 4 pounder for refining the bevel. Hold the blade on the far side of the anvil and pound away. Bush hog blades are usually a low to medium carbon steel and, though thick and heavy, work easily.
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