irnsrgn Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 problem - broken off stud in a big ford V-8 engine this is where its located. The front wheel removed, shock removed, steering column disconnected and inner wheel well removed, prior to calling me. also negative post of battery disconnected. A close up of the broken stud (bolt) A short piece of 1/8 by 1/2 angle iron welded to the stud, strike arc on angle then move up to stud with welding rod, 3/32 7018. cool angle with air pressure add Marvel Mystery Oil for penetrant and using crescent wrench carefully break loose and screw out. The basic principle is, welding on the stud gets it hot and it wants to expand, as it can't expand in the hole it expands lengthways and when it cools off it shrinks just a tad loosening it a little thereby making it a little easier to remove. The culprit of all this mumbo jumbo. To find out how steady a hand you have try a 6-32 machine screw sometime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonS Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 I have done something like this by placing a nut above the end of the stud and MIG welding through the hole. Penetration was not always good enough to hold. I like the idea of the angle iron and the use of 7018 rod. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irnsrgn Posted December 30, 2006 Author Share Posted December 30, 2006 too much hype about penetration in welding, welders should be more interesting in getting complete fusion, most welding rods don't have deep penetration only shallow to moderate. Pipe welding rods with XX10 (DC) and XX11 (AC/DC) designation are deep penetration and fast freeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paragon Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Great idea. Wonder how well this would work with oxy/acetylene welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 irnsrgn, Good technique. When the situation arises I will employee your concept. I was always afraid to welded on them. I used to heat them "only", then drill a hole for a bolt extractor. If I had enough material I would cut a noch on the top of the bolt and use a screw driver. It seems I think I know a whole lot, but the problem is that the information is stored in other peoples minds. Thanks! Be safe, be safe! Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Great idea Jr, I thought stud removal was firing the pool guy. ApprenticeMan, You have a way with words! Be safe, be safe! Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce wilcock Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 yes thats the way i remove studs , the only diference is i use a joiners pencil and go over machined surfaces and if the stud is broken down short i pencil over the exposed threads ,then blow off loose graphite ,and fill up with weld till i can get as you do a peice welded on , the graphite stops welding to the casting and marking it , its a good job you made a thread of it irnsrgn ,grinn , the pencil is usefiull for biulding up key ways along with old brushes out of motors filed up to make spacers to keep holes clear of weld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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