December 18, 201015 yr My shop partner rebuilt a 50 lb LJ. It runs good but unless it is really hot and has been running a lot the darn thing keeps gently striking when you take your foot off the pedal. It's not the linkage. Any suggestions?
December 18, 201015 yr My shop partner rebuilt a 50 lb LJ. It runs good but unless it is really hot and has been running a lot the darn thing keeps gently striking when you take your foot off the pedal. It's not the linkage. Any suggestions? Sounds like the clutch is set up a bit tight... you say its not the linkage but are you sure the fork is allowing full free movement? Did he pour a new clutch bearing? if so maybe he it needs faced a bit more to allow for full disengagement? What kind of clutch lining is it? is it steel on steel, steel on leather, steel on wood? Has it been oiled well?
December 18, 201015 yr If all looks right-you really have to have lubricant squirt bottle in hand(or near) and be lubing the clutch FREQUENTLY.. I have a little graphite added to my oil for extra slickum...
December 19, 201015 yr My 100 pounder does the same thing. I have an old style. (pulley in the middle) I think its because the grease for the clutch bearing is not slick enough until it heats up. When I start my hammer at the biggining of a forging seasion, I give the Clutch a good squirt of oil... messy, messy. Belt tension could also help with the added friction on the bearing....
December 19, 201015 yr You said it don't do this after it warmed up good. Most likely thing is the grease in the clutch bearing is acting as a torque converter and keeps driving the hammer. Try using a thinner grease. It may take a while to work the old grease out. Also when greasing when you feel the grease gun handle start to pump harder quit or you will pack too much grease in there. The clutch bearing is probably a little tight. This is one reason I put a brake on all my hammers. It will stop as soon as you release the treadle.
December 19, 201015 yr Could be a number of things, all covered above. For my hammers, it's a matter of adjusting/shimming and oiling the clutch blocks. Like Fred used to say, "More Oil" Like Phil said, add a brake! End of problem. Something I've been meaning to do to mine for a long time.
December 19, 201015 yr Sounds like the clutch is set up a bit tight... you say its not the linkage but are you sure the fork is allowing full free movement? Did he pour a new clutch bearing? if so maybe he it needs faced a bit more to allow for full disengagement? What kind of clutch lining is it? is it steel on steel, steel on leather, steel on wood? Has it been oiled well? I agree with monster about the clutch bearing that,s where i'd look first. look at the top 12:00 where the clutch and the flywheel meet, if there is no gap (rubbing),then at your 6:00 you'll probably see a fair size gap. If that's the case then its the clutch bearing............good luck mb 12:00 and 6:00 may not apply, it would depend on the direction your belt is pulling.... Another clutch bearing test is: loosen the belt,then grab the clutch and see if you can shake it cross corner. a little is ok, but not much more than 1/16...
December 20, 201015 yr Could be a number of things, all covered above. For my hammers, it's a matter of adjusting/shimming and oiling the clutch blocks. Like Fred used to say, "More Oil" Like Phil said, add a brake! End of problem. Something I've been meaning to do to mine for a long time. A brake is Aok, but if the clutch bearing is worn out it needs to be fixed....mb
December 20, 201015 yr A brake is Aok, but if the clutch bearing is worn out it needs to be fixed....mb Yes, that's right. He said rebuilt hammer, so I assume the clutch bearing had been addressed.
December 20, 201015 yr Yes, that's right. He said rebuilt hammer, so I assume the clutch bearing had been addressed. I know the first one I rebuilt I overlooked the clutch cause it was beyond my skills then. It was twice as much work to put it right. It depends on who did the rebuild. Maybe he can find out....mb
December 21, 201015 yr If a worn out clutch is the problem you can find that by puting a feeler gauge between the clutch cone and clutch lining 180 degrees from the motor if there is no clearance on that side and a large amount 180 from that your bearing needs help. With that being said this hammer doesn't have this problem when warmed up so I suspect the bearing maybe too tight. My experience is a worn clutch bearing don't change much with warm up.
December 22, 201015 yr I tend to agree with the "heavy grease in the clutch bearing" theory. I have the same issue with a LG 25, especially when the shop is cold (whick it has been lately!!). Works better with a very light grade of grease in cold weather. Good luck, and let us know what works for you.
December 22, 201015 yr I tend to agree with the "heavy grease in the clutch bearing" theory. I have the same issue with a LG 25, especially when the shop is cold (whick it has been lately!!). Works better with a very light grade of grease in cold weather. Good luck, and let us know what works for you. Some of us fossils probably the stuff in a can at the auto parts store that would re seal piston rings,I never bought any........As a stop gap the grease could work ok......mb
December 24, 201015 yr Some of us fossils might remember the stuff in a can at the auto parts store that would re seal piston rings,I never bought any........As a stop gap the grease could work ok......mb
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