Naz Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 I usually use the ol' traditional 1/3 beeswax,1/3 boiled linseed oil and 1/3 varsol (or mineral spirits)and apply to the work when hot to the touch. I really like the results of this mix but as the temperature drops every day here in Montreal, my mix gets thicker and thicker and I would really like it to be more liquid even in cold weather.(I don't heat my shop except when the forge is lit) I'm about to make another batch with less wax and more varsol and oil hoping the ratio will be good so it stays liquid even when it goes -13 farenheit. If anyone has a solution for this problem I would love to hear it. Thanks !! Naz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinityblacksmithing Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 I haven't tried this in the winter yet, but I like to make it liquid and "paint" it on. I will heat up a 5" piece of usually 1/2" stock and dip it in the wax, moving it back and forth till it turns liquid. Then I paint it on with a brush. I would think this works in the cold of winter aswell, would just need a thicker hotter piece to liquify the wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toreus Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 I use a really similar mix (turpentine instead of varsol, and slightly different ratios). I end up applying it in the basement sink after heating the piece with a hairdrier. Not really a direct answer, but hope it helped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 How about setting the can on or close to the forge? Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Plug in an old crock pot filled with water as you light your forge.if you put the jug of finish in the crock pot it`ll stay warm and you also have room to use the pot to warm up lunch if your wife uses those vac bags like mine does. I`m not allowed inside the house as long as I have my forging(or painting) clothes on so things work out well come lunch time. BTW-My "shop pot" cost me $5 at the thrift store and usually holds hot vinegar to speed up the derusting and paint removal on old tools and hardware.Something else that`s not allowed in the house. <_< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 The mix may be applied with more heat, say, above the heat rainbow colors, ie., above 630ºF, but below a black heat (approximately 800ºF). I heat in the forge. You get a semi-gloss black finish. I use old fashioned Johnson's floor paste wax applied with a cotton rag. To further protect the piece, you can give it a cold wax finish at any time followed by a light buff. You'll get some vapor which is not good to breathe, so I work outdoors or with the door and/or windows open. If you get a great deal of vapor and nothing happens, you're too hot. If you get moderate vapor and a black finish, you're OK. If you get a greasy coating and hardly any vapor, you're too cold. http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son_of_bluegrass Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 The mineral spirits or turpentine (solvent), mostly evaporates away doing little for protection of the metal, that comes from the wax and linseed oil. The linseed oil will cure on exposure to oxygen becoming thicker (it polymerizes). Essentially, when you mix 1/3 of each you end up with a 50/50 wax to oil mix and the solvent makes it easier to apply. If you want it to be more paint-like and less paste-like, leave the wax to oil mix about 50/50 and add solvent (i.e. mineral spirit). The end mixture will put less protectant on the surface but multiple coats can be applied. What I like to do is melt the wax (in a container inside a container of hot water - think double boiler) then add about the same amount of linseed oil. Once those are mixed I'll add a small amount of solvent (I generally use turpentine) while it is still warm. Once it cools I'll add solvent until I get the consistency I want. By the way, once the oil polymerizes, I don't know how or if it can be reversed. If your mix is thickening because the oil is curing, you can't do much about it. I try to use my mix within a month. It usually has gotten to a point beyond usability in about 6 months. ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naz Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 The mineral spirits or turpentine (solvent), mostly evaporates away doing little for protection of the metal, that comes from the wax and linseed oil. The linseed oil will cure on exposure to oxygen becoming thicker (it polymerizes). Essentially, when you mix 1/3 of each you end up with a 50/50 wax to oil mix and the solvent makes it easier to apply. If you want it to be more paint-like and less paste-like, leave the wax to oil mix about 50/50 and add solvent (i.e. mineral spirit). The end mixture will put less protectant on the surface but multiple coats can be applied. What I like to do is melt the wax (in a container inside a container of hot water - think double boiler) then add about the same amount of linseed oil. Once those are mixed I'll add a small amount of solvent (I generally use turpentine) while it is still warm. Once it cools I'll add solvent until I get the consistency I want. By the way, once the oil polymerizes, I don't know how or if it can be reversed. If your mix is thickening because the oil is curing, you can't do much about it. I try to use my mix within a month. It usually has gotten to a point beyond usability in about 6 months. ron Very clearly explained !!! Thanks very much to all replies ! Naz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Hall Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 I recently baught an old deep fryer at a yardsale to do this in, but have not tried it yet. The temp adjust pretty low so i was thinking i could keep it warm and just put lid on it when im done. Am i wasting my time with it or does that sound feesable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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