Dick L. Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 I just got this Bradley hammer and want to freshen it up as I get it set up.The previous owner used it to split bark rings for basket making and found the present arrangement to work very well for him. If anyone has the dimensions of the anvil that goes on the anvil block under the lower die I would appreciate it. The height being the most important part. Thanks, Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 On one of mine the sow block is from the factory it is 9 1/2 by 11 1/2. It is 5 1/2 inches from the bottom of the block (not the male dove tail) to the bottom of the dove tail for the die. That dove tail is 1 1/2 inches deep. The other one is the same height but one inch bigger each way. The smaller dimension runs parallel to the helve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 3, 2010 Author Share Posted October 3, 2010 Stewart and Peacock Thank You for the info ! I have some appropriate Meanite Cast Iron slugs that I think I can get an anvil block from so the dimensions and photos will help a lot. Stewart I don't want to put you out as far as a manual . Don't know if you have other info ,I downloaded the manual in PDF format that Matthew got and posted in his thread. Thanks again, Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 3, 2010 Author Share Posted October 3, 2010 Thought of another question that those of you that have Bradley hammers could answer. Question is how important is an Isolated mounting consisting of a large amount of concrete and sawing a hole in the garage floor. I'm not against doing it but just wondered if a 1"or more plate on urethane isolation mounts might provide the same effect? Cutting the floor nails down where it's going to be and I would be looking at access to the forge and the hammer itself but shop layout is something that seems to be ever changing as I continue to learn and try different kinds of forging. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 What is your floor made of? My 40# sits on a bed of treated hard yellow pine full 2in. thick on a full 6in. thick concrete floor,7 bag mix with #5 rebar on 12 in. centers both ways. Been there 10 years with no problems other than I cannot do precision machining on my mill 40 feet a way while someone is forging on the hammer. PS concrete is on 25 feet of undisturbed clay on top of 300 feet of solid lime stone. If your floor has fill dirt under it thin concrete floors may not hold upto the pounding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 Sounds like I maybe have to try it. My floor is only 4-5" of concrete. No rebar but its on about a foot of gravel packed and flooded before the pour to assist settling. Scraped down to ledge bedrock for the footings. So I guess it will either be fine or shake the dust off the steel. Thanks for the input I'll do a video when it gets in operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Gregory Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Dick, I'll take exact measurements of the block on mine and get them to you, along with some better photos of it. Would you mind if I don't manage to get to it until Friday? It's my day off, and frankly I've been neglecting this project. Funny that I should find this thread just now... my friend at the rubber company called me tonight to tell me that he got my new cushions done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Funny that I should find this thread just now... my friend at the rubber company called me tonight to tell me that he got my new cushions done! woooooohoooooo!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thanks Matthew, Any help you can provide when time allows will be very helpful. Thank you, Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Gregory Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thanks Matthew, Any help you can provide when time allows will be very helpful. Thank you, Dick If you're willing, I'd love to see lots of good 'before and after' shots of the hammer you have... the higher quality the pictures, the better! I've been working on a website to document these ol' pigs, and I'd love to include yours, too. Here's a link to the preliminary page... the links on the top are where the hammer stuff is:M. Gregory Knives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 I have taken a lot of pictures already but I will take some with that thought in mind. I'd be happy to be part of any exchange of info that will help others with thier project. If I stand on the treadle arm to release the brake and turn the flywheel mine will cycle right through a hammer stroke. The anvil (lack of ) and integrity of the bumpers are my main focus. I do want to clean and paint it before putting it to use. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew T Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Matthew, could you share with us what the material is, and the durometer of your new rubbers? Thanks, Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Basket Weaver? It's about time that hammer got back to it's true calling! Thanks for rescuing it from the ignominious duty of pounding bark rings! What shame it must have endured. :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Gregory Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Matthew, could you share with us what the material is, and the durometer of your new rubbers? Thanks, Andrew Andrew, my friend at the rubber company measured the ones I had on it and they measured @ 90 durometer. The new ones will be the same, except made of urethane. They had an existing mold that was pretty darn close to the original dimensions, so they used it for the pour and machined it to close size and taper to the originals. My hope is that they'll work, and that his company will be able to offer them for sale! We shall see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Gregory Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Dick, as per your request... let me know if there's anything else that would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 Thanks for taking the time to supply the dimensions with photos in such great detail. I will document building mine as well. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 A few more shots of mine, just to show the overall hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Gregory Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I've been noticing in some of the photos I've seen that the helve on many of them are tapered... Dick, would you mind measuring the dimensions of yours so that I can get proper measurements for mine? The documents I got from Phil show no such taper, yet every single hammer I've found with an original beam has it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 The helves that came on the machines did have a taper and rounded corners. Maybe 1/2 inch from the husk to the die head. Seems later replacement helves were straight and no rouded corners. I think the square is the way to go when you put the taper in if the grain is striaght the taper will cause it to exit the beam before it gets to the die head. All the tapered ones have splits, square ones don't have quite as much problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Matt , I'll measure it in the morning and post the dimensions here. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Gregory Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Dick, don't bother - when Phil says it, I believe it! I'll be leaving mine square in profile, and just radius the edges. Thanks, guys! Phil, I'd like to know what sort of greases and oils you're using on your machines. General consensus seems to be way oil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Way oil is mostly for guided head machines with sliding surfaces. These hammers have only rotating brearings. I use 30 wt motor oil if I can find it. If not in the summer I use bar and chain oil. in the winter if your shop is cold maybe lighter wt first thing when you start up then switch to heavier when it warms up. I don't use any grease I think it is too sticky and holds slag and grit. Make sure all the oil cups have some type of wick material to hold the oil so it doesn't just run thru. these oil cups are old tech but work great with oil soaked up in the wick as the bearing heats up the oil is thinner and releases sooner. Be sure to make sure all the oil ways are open as you assemble your machine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 I want to include these photos and dimensions in case anyone has a hammer and does need to know the taper. The big end is 6"X7" and the small end is 5"X6".It has some splits and they are on the center line but not all the way through. The beam is serious over kill like the hammer to anvil ratio. I think the only way you loose one is from dry rot . Seems it would be hard to break on a 40 lb. hammer being used correctly. If you think about it all handles and baseball bats etc. have grain exiting the surface. They work pretty well unless abused. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Dick I read your post and you got me thinking. I went today and found the hevle that came on my hammer. It is tapered just like your pics. I did find something of intrest. The side to side taper is cut on the mating surfaces of the layers 1/2 inch on each piece on the inside of the helve. Also there is a groove cut the full length of the helve with a piece of wood about 3/4 inch square in the groove. I am pretty sure the helve on the hammer now is an after market piece. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Dick I read your post and you got me thinking. I went today and found the hevle that came on my hammer. It is tapered just like your pics. I did find something of intrest. The side to side taper is cut on the mating surfaces of the layers 1/2 inch on each piece on the inside of the helve. Also there is a groove cut the full length of the helve with a piece of wood about 3/4 inch square in the groove. I am pretty sure the helve on the hammer now is an after market piece. Thanks! Until I just looked at the photos I posted I didn't realize how centered the square piece is in the photo of the rear (big end ) of the helve. The front is captured in a heavy metal band and the end covered with a canvas belting but I'm starting to think it might be a 2 piece helve with that square insert full length. Anyone ever see one like that? Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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