Fixing cuts in the side and flattening thin metal longitudinally.

[Robert Simmons]

I am a newbie to smithing and I have made a first, flawed attempt at some tongs. Some of the mistakes I made I understand but I also had a couple questions.

In the attached image I have two issues that i couldnt figure out how to solve immediately. First of all, on the place indicated by A, there is a dent in the side of the metal. What would be the best way to remove that divot to get the side flat.

While we are talking about flattening, on the side marked by B, the side is rounded but I would rather have it be straight. Is there a way to straighten that side without curling the metal from A to B?

Thanks in advance.

[John B]

Hi Robert, Thats a difficult question to answer based on what is there, and not knowing how you got there.

There is some work to do on them yet, and some of these problems may be alleviated as you develop them further.

You have to put a dogleg in them to get them into a working situation, as you do this the outer edges will alter as you work on them, it may also tend to distort the rivet hole you have in there.

You can remove dings and alter shapes on the face /edge of the anvil or over the horn.

How did you get to this stage? It looks like you started with square bar, flattened the end and then twisted a section for the jaw.

Did you plan it this way, and what did you use as guidelines to make tongs? as this seems a bit of an unusual way to go. I am not saying it won't work, but not a way I would go.

There is plenty of advice and opinions on tong making on this forum, but choosing one is not easy, especially for a newcomer.

Sorry if this is not much help, if we had more information on how you had got to this point may help.

[Robert Simmons]

yeah I planned it that way but I was sort of upside down in my thinking I think. I am a newbie to smithing. I also wasn't able to flatten nice and straight like I wanted but that is another issue. I still need a ton of practice I know but watching vids isn't quite getting me some of the finer points of how to keep things straight or straighten them later.

All advice is appreciated.

[John B]

We all need a ton (or more) of practice, but this is a sequence that works for usable tongs that can be adjusted to suit many smallish applications, just up the stock sizes and alter dimensions for larger and other shape jaws.

Material used 5/8” (16mm) square MS x 8” (200mm) long x 2 off

Mark out at 1.5” (38mm) and centre punch from end



Turn bar over 180 degrees mark and centre punch at 2.5” (65mm) from end



You are now ready to start by getting it hot and forging the jaw

On the near side of the anvil, (a small radiused portion is best) place the mark over the edge, and then using a half on / half off blow (this relates to the position of hammer in relation to the anvil face) forge it down keeping it parallel in both planes to about half the thickness of the original material to produce this shape.



Then move to the far side of the anvil and rotate the piece 90 degrees to the left (if you are right handed) and angle it to about 45 degrees to the left and again using half on / half off blow reduce the thickness to about half the width of the original stock again where the transition is to produce this.



and from underneath showing angled edge (I hope you can make it out)

Next step is to rotate the piece 90 degrees to the left again and at 90 degrees (square on) to the anvil body, move it forward at the far side of the anvil to the next centre punch mark and using the half on / half off blow again, forge it down to half the stock size again to produce this



Using the hammer and on the edge of the anvil, round the boss area and tidy up the jaw



Punch in the rivet hole ¼” or 5/16” will do



Now you are ready to start to draw out for the reins

Roughly draw out the reins



Then square up the section immediately behind the pivot boss and draw the rest of the rein down to your required shape and size, cut off excess if required, align the jaw in relation to the handle, taking care not to distort the rivet hole (cool locally if it helps)



If you want to form any shapes in the jaw to grip round/square bars, now is the time to put them in using a suitable fuller and swages.

Make another one identical and you are then ready to rivet them together, you can make your own rivet, or use a commercially made one, or even just a piece of rod of a suitable diameter.

Use light blows to shape the rivet head, you can heat the rivet if it helps, but don’t forget to work the jaws to ensure you don’t rivet them solid,

When you are satisfied heat them and adjust the jaws and reins to fit the work you will be using them for, then quench them whilst working the jaws to ensure a good easy operation when in use.

I hope this helps, and good luck, you will get better.