thecelticforge Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 I had a bit of free material and wanted to make a show piece. Fireplace cranes are things that people buy if they know that you can make them. I usually used flat stock, forge welded the arm to the post and then a curved brace to both. I think almost everyone I have seen has been like this. Today I took a section of 7/8ths round bar and split a mortise in it. Then I took a piece of 1 X 3/8s bar and made the arm. it holds my weight and does not budge. I am thinking on upsetting the bite flush with the bar and not using the curved brace at all. Since I have not seen one like this afore, I am going to be a bit cautious before I finish it. Any reason why this won't work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 i would still use the brace.. the way i learned to do those was donald streeters book professional blacksmithing. he used a mortice and tennon like what you show and forge welded the brace on the arm before assembly bent it to corrrect angle then worked the tennon and forge welded or rivited the other part of the brace . ive made a few but they are not big sellers .. different area where ime selling .good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 I think you could use this design. I would probably go with an upset area at the tenon and arch the piece some or leave the top flat and run a taper out to the hook. or start with some thing a little larger and draw it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecelticforge Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 I think you could use this design. I would probably go with an upset area at the tenon and arch the piece some or leave the top flat and run a taper out to the hook. or start with some thing a little larger and draw it out. The tapered end is what I usually do, but I was doing something new for giggles. The area where the tenon meets the mortise will be flared before I set it. I think it gives a prettier and stronger union. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Looks good and sturdy, however how many of the originals have you seen without the brace? With the use of modern steels rather than the original wrought iron you probably wouldn't need the brace to hold up a big kettle of beans but perhaps most folk are looking for "tradition" and not "engineering". Just my two bits worth. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecelticforge Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 Looks good and sturdy, however how many of the originals have you seen without the brace? With the use of modern steels rather than the original wrought iron you probably wouldn't need the brace to hold up a big kettle of beans but perhaps most folk are looking for "tradition" and not "engineering". Just my two bits worth. I think I will go ahead and put a brace on it just for tradition sake. It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.