tong technique

[lamepro]

so i just began forging about 4 months ago and mabye its just because im a newbie but i notice that when forging (mostly larger flat stock) my tongs jump and the stock evently wiggles loose. today a larger piece flew out of my tongs and bounced off the garage door. lucky me it didnt hit me or set anything on fire. so is there a way to hold your tongs or piece on your anvil to prevent such things?

[Rob Browne]

First thing I would say is check if they are the right size for your stock. If the stock is too thick or thin the jaws will not hold properly and the work will eventually escape or it will force you to hold it too hard and hurt your tong hand/arm eventually.

Most of us end up with quite a collection of tongs for different stock thicknesses and shapes.

BTW, welcome to IFI

Cheers

[Dodge]

I agree with Rob, but even the best gripping tongs will work loose. Especially at first; a missed blow, not having the steel in the best position on the anvil etc. It comes from experience (which I am still gaining LOL) After a while when you get more comfortable with the whole process, you'll find you will be able "feel" the best grip and be able to reposition your tongs on the piece even between blows. I often will hold the piece down with the hammer while I get a better grip. The key is doing it before it flies off and hits the garage door Hope those 2 cents were helpful :)

[clinton]

tong rings or clips can aid in holding, and like the other guys said you have to have the right tongs
http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/Templates/cart_templates/cart-detail.php?theLocation=/Resources/Products/Forging_Tools_misc/Tong_Rings

[Don A]

Be sure you are not using flat jawed tongs to hold anything with the jaws in the vertical position. If the stock can pivot, it will eventually fly out.

I like wolf jaws as an all-around tong for round and square, but for forging flat stock on the edge, you need something that traps the piece and stabilizes it from all sides.

I chased hot blades all over the shop until I modified my old flat jaws to four-sided tongs. This improved everything immensely.

[John B]

Tongs should fit the workpiece properly, it is not a long, time consuming job to adjust tongs to suit a particular material section and make them safer to use.

If your tongs are only gripping on one spot, you are not in control of the workpiece being held, and it will go its own way.

You want tongs to suit the work pieces you use most, in practice probably 5 or 6 pairs will cope adequately.

Some tongs may be fine for more than one section of material, but if you try them and you can wrench the workpiece out easily, they want adjusting or use another more suited pair.

The reins should also be parallel and comfortable when in use, and not touching or likely to nip your palm or other vulnerable points.

The time taken to adjust tongs is easily recouped when using them and it also improves the safety aspect.

All you have to do is heat the jaws and pivot area to a good red heat, grip the workpiece in them and clamp tight in the leg vice so the workpiece is bedded into the jaws, then adjust the reins to lie parallel with a suitable gap between them, (insert a bar 3/8"Approx between them near to the the pivot point, then place the reins parallel or with a slight open ended taper) and then remove from vice and quench whilst working them to give a smooth working joint when in use.

If the tongs are made from a high carbon steel, then normalise them before use.

Have a look through some of the online tongs suppliers and see the varieties of tongs available, that will give you a guide in what to aim for if making your own, or buying them in.

Good luck in your endeavours

[Spears]

Hello lamepro,

Working with flat plate is a painful trick compared to rod and bar stock. Adding to what Dodge said, position on the anvil right under the hammer blow. I shape 1/4" plate across this 6" ball to make these candle wave dishes out of these triangle scrap pieces. It's going a lot better than it first did and I find the less jouncy strikes straight out from the tongs and a bit less than to the side. Moving the hammer blow further from the anvil contact point yields more curve but produces one hell of a lot more bounce. Keep the metal red hot and softer, and the anvil close under your hammer blows, and squeeze like crazy with the tongs, and last but not least, move the feet real fast when it comes loose.

[pkrankow]

tong rings or clips can aid in holding, and like the other guys said you have to have the right tongs
http://www.blacksmit...misc/Tong_Rings

Those are nice clips; my gravel driveway/work area has ate one, and several other tong clips I have made. They are also available through the IFI store. I have made some from 1/4 inch round, these are based on the ones Hofi pictures in several (still missing) blueprints. The extra loop makes them more adjustable, and easier to pick up. I have also made some from the cut links from stores that sell chain. They will give you all the cut links they have if you ask, just pickle off the zinc before forging. I have a quick link as a key fob that happens to be a good size and gets used as a tong ring too.
Phil

[Francis Trez Cole]

uri hofi did a BP on the woop tongs they work great for all sizes of stock maybe glenn can post it for you.