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I Forge Iron

A good Friday


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Had a good day, commission for door furniture, made the master in mild, case hardened, made swage tool, forged blank in bronze, reasonable result but lots of possibilities ! :)
Thesmoother of the two was made yesterday, so the good Friday day refers to the textured one.

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Beautiful piece Michael I'll take 100... Will you share the die, I have been scouring through the die sinking books here of late and am overwhelmed, I think I need to start with simple.


I will share the die no problem at all, yu collect :D
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they look really lovely myloh! i cant understand what happens when you use a swage - i know it sounds like a silly question to those of you who make this stuff all day but i dont know how it works when its not a symetrical shape like a ball or something... can you explain exactly what you do? sorry.... ` :blink:

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they look really lovely myloh! i cant understand what happens when you use a swage - i know it sounds like a silly question to those of you who make this stuff all day but i dont know how it works when its not a symetrical shape like a ball or something... can you explain exactly what you do? sorry.... ` :blink:


You asked for it!
So with a ball, you would normally rotate the material.
If you didnt rotate and hammered on, you would get the excess material squidging out to the sides, called flash. you would then let cool and grind or file it off.
Taking that into account it doesnt matter what shape element you put into the spring swage, it doesnt need to be symetrical. The top element of the sw picks up the impression of the upper part of the master and the bottom part the lower of the master. Trick is when your using your sw in production, to pre forge the shape as close as you can to the original, hence less squidging out to the side and a more accurate replication.

Making of the swage..
I used 2 mild steel blocks 40mmx30x80mm (suffient size), made the spring from about a meter of 30mmx8 mild, welded the blocks to spring.
I forged the master in mild steel, quenched, cut out some bits to make it decorative and case hardened it. I clamped the reins of the sw together so the blocks remained closed tight in fire, (this reduces scale build up on the face of the blocks and creates a better impression (so does a clean mug of coffee to a customer). Took my sw to the fire, got an good even heat on both blocks, get your cold master and centrally place between the hot blocks of sw, forge under massey until both blocks touch or close and be careful not to over hammer.
Hope this threw some light out, let me know what you have in mind to create and PM me if you need a dig out!
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This defiantly looks like the direction I have been searching, most of the die sinking books are geared towards machining. I have the machine capacity to do but not the spirit, I just like to hit hot stuff.
So do you have two dies? one for the front and one for the top? Are you preshapping your material before you go to the dies?

Thanks, COD? :D

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This defiantly looks like the direction I have been searching, most of the die sinking books are geared towards machining. I have the machine capacity to do but not the spirit, I just like to hit hot stuff.
So do you have two dies? one for the front and one for the top? Are you preshapping your material before you go to the dies?

Thanks, COD? :D


Yes Michael its a top and bottom spring swage and i do preshape before entering the swage.
Cod thats a delicacy nowaday :D
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