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I Forge Iron

Travel anvil modifications


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Made some modifications to my travel stump last week.
This is my "norse" block anvil I use for reinacting.
I mounted a bickern and cutting plate on the stump. I also attached aome leather straps for hammer loops and I forged a 3/8 piece of steel into a tong rack. Works great.

What does your travel anvil rig look like? ... not to be confused with "Show me your reinactment forge set-up ... just your anvil rig set-up.

Sam

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Nope, no glue. :)
The bottom of the anvil has a 3" stem of 1"x1" steel welded to it and the stump is recessed to accept it (like a hardy hole). The top of the stump isn't level either so I had to carve out a recess for the base of the anvil as well. All in all, it works great and prevents the anvil from wandering.
Sam

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Stand is 2" by 6" lumber. The layer of wood that the anvil sits on has an extra 2X6 to make that layer solid. The top layer has the 2x6s cutout for anvil to sit in. Mousehole anvil is a bit less than 100 pounds. The stand is light, very portable and very stable. A piece of steel is anchored to the side for tong rack. I have two anvils set up like this, with the other anvil for guest smiths.

15660.attach

Edited by UnicornForge
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For my Viking era portable set-up, I went with a large workbench. (Sorry, no pics.)

I made the workbench out of home-sawn oak 4x4 for the 4 corners and cross braces that support the 3 inch thick oak planks for the top. I then cut holes through that top to fit the several stump anvils I use. The BIG anvil just rests on top of that bench - a 100# granite rock that is wedge shaped with a good flat on top. The various tools go right on that bench top or on the shelf below it. I also chiseled a hole through the top to slip a "wagon tongue" variation of a leg vice through it and around the side brace.

The bench itself (with vice) is in the background of my one pic in my albums - of my regular anvil stand/workbench.

Works for me.

Mikey

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