-
Posts
879 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Articles
Gallery
Downloads
Events
Posts posted by ironstein
-
-
nice work Clinton. Is that a picture of Brian Brazeals tools? That hammer looks just like his. Maybe you have a Tom Clark hammer as well? See you on saturday bro.
-
Very nice.
-
Yeah, she looked like she could handle herself! Great video, nice farrier tongs.
-
sweet find! You can call it the smoosh-o-matic. You can make some cool stuff with that thing.
-
Thanks Clinton, you too Mike.
-
awesome idea. Thats a nice looking tomahawk too.
-
By the way thanks for the compliments.
-
Mark Aspery's books will make you a better blacksmith. I have both and they are excellent.
-
you could also try heating one side hotter than the other to help the drift center up where you want it.
-
by the way, you can do a few finishes. Brian Brazeal taught me to use vegetable oil at a black heat, it gives a nice black forged look, and is quite durable. Some people simply use bees wax.
-
i have some steel wax that i use on steel furniture when i make it, but i kind of like the way it looks without. Thanks for looking Tim.
-
The guys in that video are gonna get hurt! They are striking a chipped ball peen. Just a matter of time before they shatter one of those hammers and take shrapnel in the leg. They might wanna heat the metal to a forging heat as well. I like the home made anvils though.
-
I made my first attempt at a forged rose out of Mark Aspery's excellent book, The fundamentals of Leaf work. I had some trouble with the forge weld at the base of the flower. It wouldn't seem to take. I hammered very lightly at a welding heat but to no avail. I think the 1/4 inch stock had some scale and wouldn't let a complete weld take place. Anyway here it is.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18779&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18779&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18778&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18777&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18775&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18775&stc=1&d=1258424256
-
By the way, the blueprint burner is almost exactly like the ones on my forge. They work great.
-
I was just referring to burner placement and articulation. The burner body (intake tube with bell) should not get hot. It is drawing air for combustion into the forge along with the fuel. This mixture is combusting maybe an inch into the forge and creating the jet-like flame. My forge burners stay so cool you can put your hand on them and they are barely warm.
You can plasma cut and roll your tubes, i was just stating that you should make sure and keep everything smooth. Aerodynamic is the key to an efficient design. If you have a jagged tube it will create turbulence and your flame will be all over the place. Good luck. Just remember that it needs air to combust properly. -
That is amazing! The craftsmanship is unbelievable. Did anyone see the chainlink damascus pattern? That is mind boggling.
-
The whole idea behind the burner designs you are trying to create is efficiency. You could make one, but if you bend one yourself, with a bell, and its not smooth, there will be turbulence and the burner will be noisy and erratic. Some guys use a choke atop the bell to create the different flame characteristics. Plumbing parts are cheap, and i would think bending and welding your burner would be way more trouble than its worth. As for burner placement, i have seen both angled burners that help create the swirl effect, and like my own gasser, pipes straight down from the top center. Mine throws the flames straight down onto the refractory firebrick in the bottom of my forge, it is a diamondback two burner blacksmith model.
I am really impressed with the patience displayed by fellow members in this thread. -
Diamondback forges seem to be popular, and i believe centaur forge sells whisper models. Try Anvilbrand, they specialize in farrier equipment.
-
Dothacker, Ever heard of google? check out forge designs, you might decide that the design you chose may be an exercise in futility. Google Larry Zoeller forge, he has lots of great info on burners and forge building. You can also check out blacksmithing supply, it seems to me that there is a good reason most gas forges are similar in design, thats because they work.
-
it wasn't a complaint. Perhaps if you had posted what you were trying to do and with what hardware you wanted to accomplish this, you might have received info to your liking. Sounds like you are asking for help and frustrated with the answer. What you are attempting to make might work to heat metal, but won't be very efficient. Most of the forge designs i have seen have the burners aimed at an angle through the top. these are burners designed to suck air into the forge with them. If you just stick a propane torch through a hole and close the door on that box, it wont have any air to properly combust. If you look at the gas forge section on this site, you can find info on making your own burner, and it is pretty cheap.
-
Awesome work mike! i love to see rebar made into beauty like that, i am a rodbuster for my day job!
-
Um, refractory is needed. Depending on the burner used, you will most likely heat that box so hot it will deform with no refractory lining it. Depends on what you are trying to do. Even with refractory, i placed my diamondback two burner gasser on my 1/4 inch steel welding table and it heated the table so hot, it bowed in the middle. And thats with a full lining of refractory.
-
We love pictures! Post some so we know what we are looking at, then i'm sure the guys around here can advise you.
-
Grant,
Those are all classics. I got that email from work too!
Show me your anvil
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted
Mike thats a stout looking set up! The heel on that anvil is super thick. Nice tool set up as well.