JamesG

a cheap bathroom vent 60 cfm well work. Or go to the yard sales or salvtion army and look for old sweepers. I have one the wired with a powe switch and a dimmer switch . Nice forge and anvil.

I got this from a guy couple years ago. Could someone tell me what it is,asls I think I so a pic of a one being used as an anvil stand it fit the anvil perfect it was in the gallary on this forum. What I would like to do is. Weld a piece of mild flat steel on to put my russion anvil on it. I asking because if it worth some money to someone i do not want to ruin it. Any help would be great.

The blade shape started out as a spear point, I was wanting to do a edge quanch to get the nose to come up alittle. So I edge quanched it in warm brine three times to get it straight.Temper 3 times Etched in vinger.

Steel-1050
Guard-blacken steel with a geram silver spacer in front
Handle-Honey mesquite wood tru-oil finish

Nice Work.

I bought some off a friend and I tested mine and they have high carbon, and when etch has a nice pattern in the steel.

Could you put fire brick int he back where the fire hitting the metal. I am at the moment trying to firgure out how I want to make my hood.

Steels 52100&15n20, Got it from a gent in Florida
Handle-Bubinga
Pin-Steel1/4
Black spacer
Brass guard.

Nice work Sam, I think it would look good on the if you grind the clip. Look like it be fun to chop with.

I would look into side draft for your charcoal forge. I get clinker in mine when I use mesquite charcoal. Or use a brake drum and make it flush with metal table , then use fire brick on the side to make it the shape you want.

Blade-Coil spring
Handle-Elk tin
Pummel-Brass then metal tang peened over
I file some half cicrles in the handle where the pulmber solder is

Thank you Frank, I asked because about the temper because I did not want it to shatter or chip on me.

I have some 1050 round bar would it work for hammer. I plan quanch in brine , How long should I temper them? Thanks you.

Nice work look like you have a little hamon Along the endge. Nice work.

I made my stand out of a back plate for the railroad.It weighs 200 or so pounnd. The stand is 2x4 stack squre then skinned in 1/4 plywood filled with 75 pounds of pea gravel.Held down with some big lag botls.

Steel-Forge coil spring
Bolster-plumber solder
Handle-Elk tin
Pummel-Brass

I forged the blade out of coil spring and did an edge quanch . While i was cleaning it up in some vinger i saw a temper line. So i polished and i tried to get to show better but no luck.The brass is held on by peening the tang over. A paste wax finish in the handle.

It looks like it can do a good job on chopping.

I use charcoal and wood chucks, I take three pieces of full sheets of news papers and roll the edges into a circle. Then light the bottom then place it the forge. Add charcoal and wood. Then some air until it going good then i pile the wood and charcoal on. ,If the charcaol damp I drizzle a little used vegtable oil on the paper for a little extra help.

Great work and Good luck on your test.

Nice work Scott, And great Fit and finish.

I made a billet out of 5 chainsaw blades then I folded them three times.Then i took a little piece and drilled some holes in it to give the pool and eye patter,the blade a clip point bowie shape. The finish is 400 wet and dry vinger acid etch. The hand guard is bronze with ball pean hammer . the handle is leather with blackspacer then an antler crown. The finish on the handle is paste wax.

I bought this one from a yard sale. It mounted on a railroad tie the inside of a metal can filled with busted concrete . then it filled with wet concrete. The base is a 2-10 pressure treated lumber with a piece of metal on top of that . It has four 8 in long lag bolt drilled into the railroad tie. It all shiny from a good spray of wd-40 .


Next it my post vice that I bought at a local fleamarket. I brought it home last summer and wire brushed the rust off and tried to take the scew out but would come out so i left. me and my neighbor made a home stand for . I dediced to take it apart agion this summer and give it a good cleaning. Then the the screw and the box come out with out a fight. I used some brake cleaner to clean inside the holes and box. put it back togeither then hosed it down with wd-40.It did not come with a spring or the mont braket and the bolt for the pivit was missing.I left the handle red for i know where it is in my dark building.

Thanks all.

Couple knives for a cowboy friend , He told me what he wanted and i tried to get them as close to what he asked for. The bottom is stick with end peened over on a mild steel butt cap. The handle was a bleached elk tin, I dyed it in some home made walnut dye and some other thing to get the color.
The top blase is W1 tool steel, edge quanched. and the bottom is 1080 edge quanched both in oil.

Thanks Gents, Thanks you for the offer Francis I well keep it in mind.

I am wanted to to me the slot in the steel before i drift it.I have been drilling holes in a like then file the web out between them, Then cleaning it up with a file.Would a hot chisel be simple or a hammer chisel work better. I am a one man team when it comes to hammeing.I hope that helped