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I Forge Iron

john_zxz

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Everything posted by john_zxz

  1. Hi, I want to make my own rivets for a candle holder and I fail everytime. I have to make rivets of 1/8". I have difficulties to upset the head with stock that small. Is there any tips that can help me to upset the rod and make good head for the rivets? I have a tool to hold the rivet when making the head, but if I can't upset the end of the rod, the tool is useless.:confused:
  2. john_zxz

    shopsetting

    my shop setting
  3. john_zxz

    legvise2

    close view of the jaws
  4. john_zxz

    legvise

    This is my new repaired legvise, it was all covered by a layer of rust, the handle was jammed and very rusted, the spring was missing, the bracket was missing so I made a new one with scrap steel. The bolt in the joint near the leg was so rusty it took 15 minutes hammering and lubrificating to remove it and clean it. Now it works like charm and the jaws are aligned. After removing the rust with wire brushing a lot, I put a nice coat of black wax.
  5. john_zxz

    fly press

    - Marque / Make: Charles-Wayman - Mod
  6. john_zxz

    fly press

    Hi, I would like to know if the # of the flypress is the capacities in tons. I'm looking for a 8 tons flypress. Does it mean #8? and is it okay for forging hot mild steel? John_zXz
  7. Hi Mike. Here in Canada, I had difficulty to find borax (I finally found it in a Zellers (large surface), but before that, I got it from the Drugstore. Just ask borax to a pharmacist and I'm sure you'll get a bottle. Here, its a little expensive in comparison with the 20 mule team Borax but when you need it, you need it. John_zXz
  8. john_zxz

    manual punch

    I guess I have to save my money for a flypress. It seems to be the only tool that can do what I want with no noise. Thanks to all of your answers.
  9. john_zxz

    manual punch

    Hi, I was interested in buying a flypress, but I live in Canada and the only ones I saw were from USA and it will cost me too much on shipping. Then I saw this manual punch on Euroforgings.com The price is very affordable for my budget. It has a capacity of 20 tons and can punch 3/4" hole through 5/16" thick mild steel or 5/8" hole through 3/8" thick mild steel. I want to know if it is possible replace the punch or weld a plate to the punch to do flatenning, drawing out or bending hot iron like the tools we use on a flypress. The bottom die can be replaced by a thinner one. The usual size of stock I work with is 1/4"to 1" mild steel. Would it be enough powerful to forge with it? Also, if it is possible, is it safe to use it that way? Here are the dimensions: Throat depth: 6 1/4" Stroke:3/4" Dimensions (W x D x H) 5 1/2" x 17 1/8" x 31 1/2" Weight:163 lbs (73 kg)
  10. I finaly found what is stamped on the side. It is
  11. Thank you for all you suggestions. I think I'll bolt it to my forge frame like John B said. It will be very usefull even its its small. If I can't find bolts large enough, I'll forge something with a tenon.
  12. Hi, I got this small vise for free and I don't know how to fix it to my bench. There is two square holes in the back piece to be mounted on a bench, but I don't know how its supposed to be fixed. I never saw this type. Also, there's no apparent mark that there was a leg before. Is it common for this type of vise? I would also like to know where it comes from. There is a stamped
  13. john_zxz

    nail header2

    another view of my nail header.
  14. john_zxz

    nail header

    This is my nail header. It is forged from an old piece of steel that was in a sewer. (I didn't steal it, it was replaced by a new one) The hole on the left is for hanging. There is a tapered hole under the nail header made by drilling and punching. I then filed to a square. I quenched it in water a red cherry heat and after making a few nails, there is absolutely no damages on the hole. I it probably mild steel but I'm not sure.
  15. john_zxz

    new anvil

    This is my new anvil from England. It weights 50 Kg. The surface is perfectly straight and have a nice rebound. Its like a brand new one but old. The corners are sharp. This anvil was in a garage for a very long time not using it.
  16. it looks close to the wall, but it is away from it. The photo does that.
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