john_zxz

Hi, this is the result of my afternoon forging. A small flatter made of 1 inch mild steel square bar. It's been a long time since I wanted to buy a flatter, but I was checking my scrap pieces and said, why not forge one myself? I'll be even more proud of me than buying one. It took me 2 hours alone. I started by upsetting the face to 1 3/4", put a neck with a pair of tongs as a fuller ( I don't have many tools...), slit and drifted the hole and then cut the piece from the parent stock and hammered down the end to shape. The hole is a little bit offcenter but not too much. It will do the job very fine. This is my first big slit and drift so I won't put too much stress on my shoulder. The next one will be better. I didn't forge welded a high carbon piece on the face because I don't plan to use it a lot. I'll see with use if I won't weld one, it's not too late. Now I just need to put a handle on that little baby. Let me know what you think and if there is another way to forge this type of tool. My next project is a top swage for rounding tenons.

John_zXz

Nice little anvil you've got there. For that price, it is an extremely good deal!

Nice anvil you got there. Personaly, I would just brush it with a twisted wire brush on an angle grander and then oil the base to prevent from rust. The face doesn't need to be oiled if you use it. I like the shape of these anvil, but never seen one in real. Congrats!

People that are asking: "Are you making horseshoes?", can get this answer from a blacksmith: "Not horseshoe but ladies shoes." I imagine the face of them when they hear that lol!

Alan, I'm so sorry to read that. I can't even imagine how hard it would be to live with that. I don't know you and I don't believe in God but I swear, with all my heart, I'm sending you the best vibes that I can. I'm sure you'll find a way to recover from this. Life has always surprises for us, good or bad, but after what happened to you, only good can come out. Best wishes from Canada.

John_zXz

Yea, after reflection, and a little use, I will use it as it is. I forged a bit on it and it stood well under the blows. Once bolted to the stand it is really quiet. If one day I plan to sell it, maybe I'll dress the edges but not for now.
Another question by the way. I know nothing on Stourbridge anvil, anyone has a clue on the date of this one?

This is real good work! Great project. Ladies should love it.

Hi John,

Thanks for the advise and for the name. I have one of those candle with a washer and worried a bit with them. I'll be careful.

Hi,
This is my new anvil that I jsut bought this morning. Just typed anvil on Kijiji and found this one for 75$. Couldn't pass this ad. Called the guy and 30 minutes later it was in my shop.
Now the edges have been abused but it is still usable... for that price. (Here anvils are very expensive and really rare too) The base is forged and have a tools teel top. When I lightly tap the face with a ball pein hammer, the sound is good all over it. I don't think that it is separated from the body. There is only chips on the edges. It weights 118lbs (1-0-6) and has the name Stourbridge stamped on one side.
I'm fairly happy with this anvil because the waist is very thick, almost like my 234 anvil just under in the pictures.

Now here's my question: what would you do guys to this anvil? Weld the edges, resurface the top or leave it like this? I'm not a very experimented welder and I don't know how much it would cost for me to do it by a professional welder. The top plate seems relatively thin so resurfacing wouldn't be a good idea I think. Otherwise, if welding is not a good plan, then it is still usable. Theres a 3-4 inches edge near the horn that is very nice. Thanks.

John_zXz

Ahhhh! Thank you very much guys for the explanations. The BP Larry, explains everything very well. Now I need to make this new tool. Thanks again.

John_zXz

Yes you understood right, but I wonder if the dish is solidely attached to the arm or just sitting loosely on it.

Hi, I have a problem with candle spikes ( sorry I don't know the name of that part, you'll see in the picture what I'm talking about).
How in the old days did they make this part, the small spike where the candle sits on. When there is a scroll under the pan, you can make a tenon and rivet it from under, but like in the picture, I don't see how without arc welding. If someone has a clue, I'm taking it because I want to make candelabras like this one and I don't want to tack it. My stick welder, even at the lowest amperage is too powerful and burns a hole in half a second in a pan of 16 ga steel.

I have one. It is good to cut sheet metal (mine is 16 ga) and with little more effort, you can cut 1/8" plate. I never tried plate larger than 2". There is also a hole to cut 1/2" rod in the middle of the blade. I can cut easily 3/8" bar in that same hole but I must say that my shear isn't solidly bolted on a heavy bench. It is only bolted to a wood beam on the floor, so I can't work with 1/2". IMHO it is good for the price.

I like them very much! Nice work.

Congratulation!

Looks fine to me. The edges seems sharp. Go for it if you live near.

I tried the vise jaws trick and it worked. No need to buy or make new tool. Thanks for the replies guys!

Hi, my project is to replicate an old (not a lot but still) lock for a cupboard. This subject is more for the locksmithing area but didn't know where to post it.
I am able to make all the parts of the lock except the rectangular holes. The steel is like 18 or 16 ga. I made a small rectangular punch and tried to punch the holes
over a piece of endgrain wood but all I got is a huge bulge and a lot of mess. Nothing near a clear punching.

My question is, does any of you have ever tried to punch holes like that in steel sheet, and if so, how did you achieve it? My other idea is to drill a series of small holes
and then file them but if punching can be done, I would prefer it.

John_zXz

Dodge, your explanation sounds very good to me. You may be right about this. Thanks.

I found this painting on an Art website (http://www.artfindin...SMITH/8633.html)
I you look closely, you'll notice that the anvil is upside down on the stump.
Any clues for this setup except that the real face would have been damaged?

My favorite blacksmith scene is from the movie: Dark Kingdom: The Dragon King. From the Opera cycle: Ring of Nibelungen.
One of my favorite medieval movie because of this scene.... and because Kristana Loken is playing in it too ;)

Thanks for your replies everyone. I think I'm gonna change the chimney pipe size from 8" to 10". That will certainly help better than adding a pipe with a blower.
Grant, the link is very interesting and has nice pictures too. Thank you.

Ok, I guess I will try to get more air circulation in my shop then. Thanks for your advices guys!

Hi, I recently came accross an article on how to build a coal forge.
In the picture, the blower pipe is divided in 2 so the draft goes underneath the forge and inside the chimney. In the description it says that it helps to draw the smoke into the chimney.
Anyone ever tried this method? I want to give it a try, mostly for the ashes in the air, as the anthracite I use doesn't smoke, but wanted to know if anyone has ever tested it before.
I'm having difficulties to upload the picture so I put the link here: http://www.vintagepr...shop-forge.html

John_zXz

Thanks for the link. Nice tip too, I will do this as a routine for sure.