Jump to content
I Forge Iron

john_zxz

Members
  • Posts

    202
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by john_zxz

  1. Here are 2 pic I took from a forge in an old abandonned forge in Thetford Mine (Quebec, Canada). It was used to repair the tools of the asbestos miners. The blacksmith there was living in the shop. There was his quarter in the next room. He has the highest salary after the big boss and the overseer. This forge is huge. I think there is 2 firepot but not sure because there was coal dust everywhere flush to the top. I'm sure there wasn't any smoke in the shop with this design. There is also a lot of space to move the pieces, the hood doesn't obstruct the view. The chimney is big enough and there is also a door on the left side and the right side of the forge for long pieces. Ahh too bad this mine is abandonned. If only there were people reenacting this forge, it would have been great. In the next room, it was the main shop where welders repaired things and where the miners recharged their batteries. Just wanted to shared these photos of the shop with you. What do yo think of the forge design guys, do you think like me that there was no smoke or am I wrong?

    post-9026-0-52557200-1347796843_thumb.jp

    post-9026-0-19197900-1347796852_thumb.jp

    post-9026-0-42656200-1347796865_thumb.jp

  2. Yep, you should smooth the face and the edges too so when you will hit the hot metal, you won't leave sharp dents on your work. The grooves your are talking must be very small circular line on the face i guess? Mine also had these grooves but I sanded them down. If you don't do this, you will have the impression that you have many digital prints on your work...

  3. @Knots
    I own a 50kgs czech anvil from branco (purchased from a Canadian dealer) and it is great quality IMHO. I missed some blows with a hardened hammer and it did not dent. Nice rebound too. I put it in concrete like the photo at the beginning of the topic because it rang like a chuch bell. Even though it has loosen up with time and I had to put a magnet on the side. The curves in the legs are very handy, they act as a swage and the radius in the front is to prevent chipping from sledge hammering. I did some hardy tools in the hardy hole and it did not break. So far I'm very satisfied with it.

    Btw, the anvil in the picture, Poundhound, is beautiful. The heel is thinner than nowadays east european anvils and the feets have more graceful lines. Thanks for posting.

  4. This is a really great project. I think you could keep almost the same forms around the block as your other blocks but with some holes in the middle for the reasons you have listed. With square and round holes of commons sizes.
    There is an industrial block from alku store: http://www.euroforgings.com/shop4.php?pageNo=1&id=4584
    In my opinion, there is a little too much holes in it but if you're planning to make a 60-70 lbs, it will be better. The one they're listing weights 176 lbs and come from Czeck Republic if I'm correct.

    Just my two cents.
    If you make a block like this, I will certainly buy one.

  5. I intend to use a block for upsetting, making a lot of hardy tools, making bowls etc... I'm currently waiting for a price from John Newman for his trunnion 140lbs swage. I like its shape especially for the small half round on the sides and the bowl depressions. I just wanted to know what is a good price for a used swage. The swage block in the picture has less utility then Newman's one for me but it's 15 minutes from me...

  6. Hi, I was offered a swage block 12x12x4.5" for 600$ CND. This is the 1st one, down in the picture and it looks like its a J.B Jardine. I wanted to know if its a high price or usual for that piece. I need to make my mind fast on this.

    Thanks
    John_zXz

    post-9026-0-30274500-1342207730_thumb.jp

  7. I don't need these anvils, I already have a good anvil. It's just for starter out there that I put the link. I'm still waiting for the dealer's answer. I agree with you macbruce, if its cast iron, I wouln't bother with them, but if its cast steel, It can be a pretty good anvil for new blacksmiths.

  8. Yes it happened to me when I was learning on my first anvil, lucky it was on an old anvil that was already dented. I found that when I missed the blows, it was because I was forcing the hammer, not letting it down by itself. Now I'm better with my hammer control and generally, my hammer faces are a bit softer than my anvil face, but not annealed. Recently I missed a blow but it didn't dent the face. Also, I have an annealed hammer for hot cutting on the hardy.

  9. Hi, I saw these parts made of cast iron to reduce the size of the fire in Europe but I can't seem to find a place to buy them in North America. Does anyone know a dealer, or have a clue on how to make them? I'm using clean anthracite as fuel and since it doesn't coke up, water doesn't help me that much. I have a 12" round coke firepot from Centaur Forge.

    Thanks
    John_zXz

    post-9026-0-87157300-1341232502_thumb.jp

  10. Hi, I'm looking for a book that shows steps in making ironwork, but with drawings of each parts of a project. Like the pictures I have post. They are taken from a french book on ironwork but I don't know which one. I'm not looking for a book that shows only techniques but one that shows steps and drawings. If someone has a suggestion on books that are similar to these drawing, I would be very happy.

    John_zXz

    post-9026-0-87714200-1340469236_thumb.gi

    post-9026-0-03959500-1340469244_thumb.gi

×
×
  • Create New...