Dutchmancreek

No time in Germany, but a lot of time in bars

Gotta go....I'm late for Cocktail Hour

We start "Cocktail Hour" everyday at 4:00. I ring the bell and we sit at the bar and look across the deck at the mountains. Whenever company drops by, everyone gravitates to the bar. I think I've got some photos, if anyone wants to see them (no photos of the forge yet, though.)

Didn't do anything but start the fire and see that it drew good. The last thing I have to do is bring in a stump and mount my anvil. Also need a helper to get the anvil up.I can handle the smaller Peter Wright but this a 300 pound Hay Budden.

Well, I'm back after quite an absence. I just finished installing a coal forge in my new work shop.The first since I moved from the farm in Illinois to here in West Virginia. I hope to get started working again soon. The move, having to build a shop building, rehab from a broken shoulder, and carpenter work around the house kept the blacksmith work on the back burner.

Some of the carpenter work was really enjoyable.....you should see the home bar I built and installed.

Thanks guys.....yes, it is beautiful up here, although when anyone hears where I live they always ask "have you got four wheel drive" (I do). We bought the place for the view (among other things) so we're up quite a way above the elevation of Morgantown itself, up by Cooper's Rock. I'm told the winter is noticeable.

Freeman....the New River Gorge is really something. We considered moving right there close to the bridge but decided it was a little too far from what we wanted to do. We're right close to the Cheat River and might try a canoe/raft trip next summer.

Ya gotta keep looking. They are at farm auctions all the time. The problem is competition for them. I went to an auction on a cold, rainy day (in the middle of the week) and got a 130 pound Peter Wright for $75.

Way to much!!! In the Tri-State area Many folks buy them at ridiculous prices for a garden decoration or similar type antique decor item.

I've been away for some time, busy with other interests, selling the farm, and moving. I'm not working in the forge right now but decided to get back on the forum.

I recently re-located from Southern Illinois to West Virginia. I moved the whole shop along with everything else. I'm probably the only one who ever had coal shipped to West Virginia (hey, it was good coal and I wasn't going to leave it behind).

The shop equipment is stored in the basement, since I don't have a shop built yet....that'll have to wait until next spring. Luckily the basement has a "walk out" door at ground level on the back side of the house so the movers could get everything in there. They had never moved a coal forge, 300# and 130# anvils, all the tooling, vises, stock, etc......kinda wore them out, with all the rest of the household stuff.

I'm up north, just east of Morgantown, WV.......anyone else up this way?

A trammel is good for height adjustment, but a length of chain and s-hooks that fit in the links works fine too.

Your dutch oven is the stove top style. All of mine have three legs, a flat rimmed lid, and already have a bail for campfire cooking.

Here's another campfire idea.

I'm with the last two replies. I measure the length I need, cut it from the coil (usually with a cutting disc), and then straighten the cut off piece.

When I used a shallow rivet forge I used fire bricks to get more depth to the fire and was able to weld. Fire bricks are handy to have around for these types of "build ups".

I bought mine from Centaur Forge and I've been very pleased with it.

Steve

This has been my experience. Not necessarily how clean but how smooth and clean on a microscopic level.

In a machine shop, if you have a highly polished (smooth) leveling plate made of steel and place a calibrating block (again polished) for a micrometer on it, removing all the surface oil first (clean), they will stick - maybe not well - but they will tack if given sufficient time.

Pressure and time.... isn't that geology?

Re boric acid.
Will the boric acid alone melt into a glass or does it need to be suspended in something -such as borax- to be held in place?:confused:

Set up a block to use as an anvil right on the edge of the forge. Small parts lose heat rapidly and moving them to the floor anvil and getting them ready to hit can sometimes be self defeating. I have a small rr rail anvil right there on the forge and stick small pieces together right there. Also remember to use a smaller hammer.... it doesn't take a hard hit to start your weld.

Steve

Be aware that distilling of spirits is illegal both federally and in all states in the U.S. You can make some quantity of wine and beer but no distilled alcohol. I don't know what emphasis is placed on enforcement now but it is a risk you will be taking.

Unless you live in New Zealand, it's probably illegal im most other countries too.

You probably can get licensed for fuel ethanol but the paper work and record keeping will be a lot more trouble than it's worth.

Have you considered using spell check?

how do i make chissles?

Be sure there's no lead solder in there

Looks good...what's the capacity? If you're gonna do pot stillin' you need to make a grain mash instead of a straight sugar wash. Or distilling wine makes brandy.

Making your own tongs is great practice forging. There's several tutorials/blueprints out there for various kinds.

Please don't go to a local blacksmith association meeting or open forge and tell them you're not interested in making anything but swords and what's the best way to make a Japanese sword from rebar or a leaf spring (with no tools or skills.)

Here are three places in Washington. I don't know how close they might be to you.

Central Fuel, 1945 S. Market Blvd., Chehalis, WA 98532. TEL: (360) 748-8808. Bring your own containers.
Morris Coal Sales, 26458 Black Diamond Road SE, Maple Valley, WA 98953. TEL: (206) 432-3330.
Harry’s Leather Shop, 2712 Hewitt Avenue, Everett, WA 98201 TEL: (425) 252-5262

Thanks for a great thread MarkH, you sparked the creative juices!
I have a bunch of antlers and have always wanted to use them creatively for blades or tools.
I've always wondered about the best way to do it and the epoxy/friction sounds great.
But also wondered can they be sawed in half length wise and epoxied or pinned like some wood handles on a knives or is that not practical.
Tim

I grind annular grooves on the tang to be inserted so that the glue will have something to grab. JB Weld works fine and the color shouldn't matter if you wipe off the excess before it dries.

To really make it look nice, attach a plate of aluminum or brass to the end of the antler, file for a perfect fit, and put the tang through it into the antler. If the other end of the antler is sawed off put a plate or buttcap on that end too.

Here's how I do it on small meat flippers.