Jump to content
I Forge Iron

ironwolfforgeca

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ironwolfforgeca

  1. Thanks all for the good input = info ! I am still waiting for pics of this job to see ? the cill is 45 min up the road

    & I think off the Ho ? it needs to get here IF? I do repair ?

    Charlotte Frosty Glen Yes Link Belt is on my calling card but I need more info on this job first ?

    welding wise I Don't guess :) I do home work & test weld pieces that keeps me away from problems mostly

    & when the other welders here say it Can't be welded seams like I end up with it- B) LOL then I get to say WHAT / WHY :o

    then I weld it right !! I enjoy welding & am very good @ it I have a talent for welding & a love for it & I think outa the box !

    talking to machinist today yoke was the wrong term 4" pin boss by 6" tc - cill end needs rework & is under compression only arm cill so the old egg shape worn out pin bushing thing just a bit bigger not something I do often - back ho / farm tractors / cats yes

    yea been there !  have 2 to deal with after summer cutting ? Why do farmers wait till the pin falls out in the field & then run it through the machine ?????????????   YEP Summer is here LOL !

    when I see a pic will post it Thanks folks this is on going @ this point

    Glen I know when to say NO ! :D not there yet ?

    7010 rings a bell & I think ? I have some lol will ck ! I have many kinds of rods here most I don't use but I can try & see how they work & then apply to a job as needed - just my tig rods most shop don't have or know of :wub:

    Steve's Welding

     

     

     

  2. I am looking for some welding Info on a job that mite hit my door step this week

    Eqt - Link Belt LG Track Ho - Hyd Cylinder yoke repair = build up than machine back out - machine work done by other shop

    I am just welding the piece

    Weld Job - yoke piece take's a 4" pin that has worn into yoke by 3/8" or so = egg shape = build up -

    *** yoke is said @ this point to be 4140 ??? I don't know -- cill is 6' L

    my ?? is what type of proper arc rod to use ?? first thought is 7018 or 110-18 ?  any Ideas out there

    I also have mig & Tig full welding shop tools

    ** other ? will this need to be re-heat treated ? later after machining 

     

    STEVE'S Welding & Fab & Blacksmithing

    THANKS for any input on this :)

  3. get a piece of 1" x 1" sq stock from welding or steel shop - we will call that a hardie tool

    look for sq tubing that's 1" ID that you're piece fits into & that's 1-1/8 " OD

    the tube wall thickness  will matter !! the right size tube is out there - then weld that tube into hardie hole 7018 well work fine

    I do this often for other smiths that want there anvil hardie tools all the same size

    hope this helps

  4. Daswulf what I use for the welding table is the cheapest !! red oxide spray primer I can find 

    & paint the top with it - that does 2 things cut sticking spatter down 95 % also now you can draw on table for projects

    with sliver pencil - it can effect grounding some though I have a ground cable hooked to the table so if I need

    a better ground on the project I use that or if I want to control ground arcing to table then I put project on plywood

    & use G lead - all of my steel tables - cranes & other stuff are on a common shop ground 

    if I have to use my GOOD red oxide paint for table then I thin!! it down to almost water  then wash the table

    keeps rust away to here in the WET!!!!  north

    Steve's Welding & Fab  

    PS -- carb cleaner & a rage with erase sliver pencil marks on table nicely I draw / Layout alot of stuff on the table

  5. well tried a copper shim didn't help :( there's alot of oil in the wedge housing I can.t get to and clean out :(

    can't take the wedge out all the way cause it hits the hammer frame :( when I get a chance I will take the hole top

    unit off the hammer clean both wedges + slots

    will cut wedge leanth down or turn hole unit 180 degs so I can remove wedge when needed or ????

    will try aluim shim also --- only other Idea I have is to lightly !!!  file some groves or ruff up the wedge a bit

    *** what do you think of the file Idea ???

    welded a lifting ring above hammer now & will lift hammer & put rubber pad on top of ply between hammer & base unit

    + also will put heavy mat under the hole thing  should quite it down some to

    and been adding to the hanging tool rack just above hammer :D so its on going right now !!

    I will post a pic of it all SOON ! LOL

    Thanks for the in put keep it up ;)  Steve P

  6. Hmm Thomas has his own coffee cup :rolleyes: by the way you look a little more grumpy this year- Frosty said it in a nut shell LOL :lol:

    So why do we have just one national curmudgeon day ? &

    then the REST of the year is national Dummies day ????? :(

    there everywhere take Cover :ph34r: Hide in the Smithy shop :)

  7. I have a problem with my #33 yang

    the wedge on the bottom sow block -- not the wedge holding the die though -- is always coming lose after maybe 5 min of hammering  

    I have cleaned all the oil off reset wedge & still loosen up in two or 3 runs on the hammer ,This is a new thing :huh: for the Ph

    not sure what to do about it ??? or WHY its happening ???

    only thing I can think of is heating wedge & resenting it in the sow block ? 

    Or ruffing it up with a grinder some to help it stay in place better  ? OR ???

    any Ideas out there Please !

    its getting to be quite a pain in the B-- *&%#@ :angry:

×
×
  • Create New...