Everything posted by Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver
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LG 25# price?
By all means, take at least 15 minutes to examine it CLOSELY, not just casually. Besides loose pins and such look for cracks and repairs.
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My Bicks (Shouldn't we have a "Tools" subforum?)
Oow, oow, I just became a "senior member", 100 posts since I joined last month! Blaa, blaa........
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My Bicks (Shouldn't we have a "Tools" subforum?)
O.K. Here’s my latest creation. I didn't take pictures this time, but I promise I will next time (scouts honor). They're forged from 4140 and heat-treated. Starting with 1-1/4 round I forge the 1" shank first. Next I upset the collar. I use an upsetter, but it can be done using a bolster block in the hammer or even right in your anvil using a sledge. It's real nice if you can keep the heat away from the upper part that you're hammering on. If you’re making a bick, remember: a bick does not need much of a collar (just enough so it doesn’t fall thru) as you’re not usually hammering straight down on it. For the point I made a swage die for my press. In a pointing swage it's important to feed the work in incrementally to avoid pinching and always turn the work EXACTLY 90 degrees between blows. Only rarely do you just randomly turn work in swages. Of course a point can be forged free-hand at the anvil too. Good idea to grind a heavy bevel on the end to prevent a "pipe" in the end. All the points come out symmetrical after swaging. For the bent ones I just hold them flat on the anvil and carefully hammer it down so it's straight on the top side. Then it’s off to the Hossfeld bender to finish them. Advertising removed
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Hello
I'll give you a side kick!
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Anvil tool holder
Nuge: Does that rhyme with "judge" or "boogy"? Well thought out. Lose the vise grip, they fly off at the most inopportune times. Been there, done that. I like the tilt control. Made me think of a locking ball and socket for getting things perfect.
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Hello
Mebby we should start a new thread "The Grant & Frosty Show"!
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I want a robot! Really!
O.K. So where do I buy this "clean, filtered air" stuff?
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3 Phase welder
SteveSells: What do you think, am I missing something. I can't see why or how it would make a difference running a three-phase machine on 240 or 480. Just the primary taping isn't it? Should be the same output, right? What's your take?
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3 Phase welder
My bad! I guess I had brain flatulence on the AC/DC question and thought he was talking about the service. Duh! Otherwise, what question did I fail to answer, Alfonso? While I agree most "welders" can tell the difference, most non-welders can't even tell when they have the wrong polarity. Some can't even tell the difference between AC and DC. But I did tell him it can be smoother. Phillip is actually IN China and I presumed he was getting a locally made machine. They use 220 and 380 50Hz. I've never noticed any difference between running my three phase machines on 240 or 480, just a different tap on the primary, the machine and the output is absolutely identical. My single-phase AC/DC welders have electronic amperage control but I've heard of "fine voltage adjustment of the welding current", current is ampreage. A modern single-phase welder like a Miller Syncrowave is mighty smooth and "most" people wouldn't be able to detect any difference from a three-phase machine.
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Hello
Welcome I2R. Don't mind Frosty, he's gettin' a little senile. Oops, I mean pubescently challenged. He just cuts and pastes stock answers nowadays. He suffers CRS, PMS and GKWE*, but he's still my BFF! Oow, flame on! *God Knows What Else
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Hello everyone
Ooooo! Sounds like Sour Grapes? Does that "frost" you? Ha, ha!
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I want a robot! Really!
Brian: INPUT! I NEED INPUT! Wow! I'd pay a dollar to see that! When I get mine I'll be asking you a lot of questions. I'm one of the few here who actually does do thousands of repetitive operations. Believe me, I do it all manually and even MY program gets corrupted sometimes. Forewarned is forearmed! Seems like like maybe a few simple cables that stay slack in the allowed work envelope and are daisy-chained to the E-stop would do a lot. Keep talking, please. I know diddly squat about this stuff. But I am serious and it's great to find someone who has the experience! Are there any simulators around? Or programming information? Is there a standard code like G-code or proprietary or what?
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Anvil Caulking Question
Avadon: Better if you use the "attachment manager" for pics. Looks cool! Nice welding too.
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Hello everyone
Welcome Cessna! Go to user CP at the top of the page and fill in your info, then we'll know where you're at and stuff. Grant Ha,Ha! Got here before Frosty, nyaa, nyaa!
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I want a robot! Really!
If I never used it in my work, I'd still want one! But...... Wadaya mean "place it in the machine"? It can darn well pick it up by itself! I'd have two coils, put a cold one in the empty coil, take the hot one out and forge. My press has pneumatic controls, robot starts cycle, when press goes back up it sends an "event" to the robot control and the robot makes the next move. I have a CNC mill, a CNC EDM, and an automatic saw. Not unusual for me to have four or five machines running working by myself. The robot would give me more time to surf the net and post inane threads!
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3 Phase welder
Found this: When polyphase AC is rectified, the phase-shifted pulses overlap* each other to produce a DC output that is much
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3 Phase welder
Gee Steve, way to make a guy feel bad(grin). I'm talking about about the sine wave of AC. Single phase goes from +240 to 0 and down to -240, 60 times per second. With three phase you have three overlapping sine waves 120 degrees apart. After going thru the transformer using three phase in, you don't have a zero point in the output, right? I think that's right. Even with a proper bridge rectifier, the single phase oscillates and has a zero point whereas the three phase overlaps each other. makes a more stable, smooth arc. Because they all cycle at 180 degree and in three phase they are shifted 120 degrees, there has to be an overlap, right?
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Hi, boys and girls! I'm Grant (nakedanvil)
Actually in the later years I mostly manufactured paving breaker bits (what most folks call jack-hammer bits) Under the name "Apex Alloy Premium Breaker Steel. We made everything from little chipper steel bits to 6" Diameter X 48" bits for the boom mounted breakers and everything in between. Also made commercial fishing gear, mostly kedge anchors (think old fashion anchor) in sizes from 15 lb to 300. They use them to anchor longline gear and they lose a lot of gear every year. We usually made about a quarter million pounds on them each year. Then there was rigging gear, mostly for big ship and the navy and for off-shore drilling rigs and platforms. Hooks, rings, shackles etc.
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3 Phase welder
Hey Phil, Probably 380 50Hz. It will be AC. Three phase welder are a "little" more stable due to the overlapping phases. Will you notice the difference? Probably not. "Big" welder are usually three phase.
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I want a robot! Really!
Hear's a couple on Ebay. The yellow one is $4,000.00 the other is $2,000.00. The yellow one can handle more than 300 lbs! Be still my heart!
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I want a robot! Really!
We've all seen those way cool robots on TV, kind of a big mechanical arm bolted to the floor. The surplus market is loaded with them and now GM and Chrysler will probably be surplussing a ton of them. Can you imagine a robot hooked up to a Little Giant? That would be so cool!
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Hi, boys and girls! I'm Grant (nakedanvil)
After noise? SCALE!
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GE Anvil- a good buy?
I wouldn't pay more than I was SURE that I could sell it for. Me? $250.00, but that's me.
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Hi, boys and girls! I'm Grant (nakedanvil)
Busy! Had 15 - 20 employees most of the time. And noisy! 5-6 hammers, five large upsetters, wheelabrator, induction generators (one was a 175 HP 3600 RPM motor/generator), rotary forging machine, etc. You should have seen my electric meter spin! 2000 Amp 480V service. Had high pressure (15 psi) natural gas too. Fun stuff, indeed!
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Hammer pad between hammer and foundation
Really depends on the size of the hammer. Any hammer should have a minimum of a rubber pad or belting or plywood. Little one piece hammers (say under 200 lbs) can get away with such. Bigger hammers and two-piece hammers require a lot more. One consideration is height, though. I'm six-foot tall and for hammers that I'm using with the work in front of me I like 40" to the face of the bottom die. I hate bending over! Now for larger work, your arm is straight down at your side holding the tong or piece. In that case I like the die at 30 -32 inches high. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!