gewoon ik

36 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Nice score john. 

Maybe you could mail it to yourself if you had the time. 

His mailman's back does not agree anymore.

 they see you at the security and they are wondering what you stuffed now in your bag.

Almost.

Nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

Somebody made a youtube on how to make the frosty burner.

But I get an error trying to link it, so I cannot

Jhttps://youtu.be/jjvPTHiwkYs?si=mG8Z-Oj25EAEcYOb

Ok, as a flat text it works. Must be the phone doing something weird.

Treff is german for meeting.

Since it grow from Jungschmiede, you can easy guess the the origine

Don't overthink but learn, participate, share!

They call their meeting "treffs" 

Yes, that is the strugle he tells me. To cool enough without getting a wet floor.

5 hours ago, JHCC said:

You get that with a direct-exchange system, where it's one closed loop throughout the building and the wells. Nowadays, I gather that most geothermal systems use heat exchangers to extract heat in the winter and sink it in the summer, so you have more control over the temperature in your space.

What i mean is that if it is outside 35C and inside 28. A floor at 22C feels cold on your bare feet.

Is it cold? No. It is not what you expect

Friend has it in his house. Cold on your feet in the summer. Strange feeling. But so nice.

(It is a feeling the cold, in absolut values it should not feel cold).

No needlehammers? They go a lot quicker (with more noise) en with different needles you get a rough texture or only (change that to mostly) paint removal.

Very recentenly I discovered "Blacksmiths without Borders" as it is always mentioned in the club newsletter.

They organise Treffs on zoom that you can follow live. It is mostly a presentation about a subject and afterwards there is a question section. On their webside (no idea if I can link, so just put their name in google and you will get a link.

If you sign up to their newsletter, you get the invite links to their treffs so you can follow them live and participate in sometimes very interesting discussions.

They also upload the treffs on youtube after recording. You can find them under Jungschmiede IFGS. 

The language is English, the older treffs used to be mainly in German (4years and older) because they grew out of the young blacksmiths in Germany.

The subjects could be anything, from tips to improve your scrolls starting from the basics. But also case hardening or just an artist explaining his/her very special technique. The one thing they have in common is that the subjects are related to blacksmithing.

Don't know if the rules allow me to place links, if so, I will place them.

Devor. I think these hammers are used by glasssetters if tiny.

I have one of my grandfather who had a greenhouse that needed new glass from time to time.

The big pins is also costumers driven. They think forged and see old timey barn hinges or churchdoors (the first more where you live, the latter where I live) and if they want a forged hinge on their gardenshed they want it similar. Even if it looks out of place.

12mm pins, 3 hinges are common on gardensheds with countryfeel around here. Door is size of normal front door. (Mostly factory made hinges as well, boltholes not lined up with the wood)

Great to hear the store is doing good.

Also on the picture, don't know any of those ladies.

Ah it is a face hider thingamating.

Thanks for the knowledge Scott.

Do him our best wishes and our get well soon kisses

Round bar 15mm lemgt 500mm to square bar of ?? Longer.

Than round again and than square 10mm lengt 650mm rest was mostly burned off.

No pictures.

I have a devil forge and i put a firebrick in front of the opening so i have an "extended" floor outside my forge.

I put an other brick to close the opening on the side where the dragonbreath is the biggest amd the back I closed with 2 bricks.

Somewhere in the gasforgetopic I read that you have to keep the baffles (the firebricks) a small distancr from the forge so i keep them at +/- 1cm away.

I have the cheapest one, the one with the nozzle on 2 oclock.

With everything on place i can get rougly 10 to 12 hours forging out off a small bottle (12,5kg) on yellow heat. Without the baffles on a yellow orange it was 8 hours. So more heat for longer only with hard firebricks. 

I can get welding heat, but i almost never do it, the cheap forge comes with only 25mm of insulation and the bricks are turning into dust quick.

Not at home this week so I cannot show pictures and not sure i have any at all.

I have 2 of those clibs straightend.

One is already transformed into a punch and a drift. (From 1 clip you can make 2 nice to hold tools)

They work good.

I know some that have made chisels out of them and they hold up very well according to them.

Was yesterday. Needed to make a mothersday gift and since i was running behind it has to be a quick one

not bad, twists could be better aleigned and I need smaller stock. Smalles I had was 8mm round so making square 5 a 6mm twist and taper.

You can sharpen them also by using the peene as a bottom tool and flat hammer or a peening hammer.

Depents on region and what your father used I think.

After long absence to my shop, I finally finished 2 tongs I started.

Both for 6mm flat. A normal one and one for hoops (have to make one).

Was fun to make.

pictures only of the one for hoops. The other is the same but shorter and straiter beaks.

And on the picture i see that the reigns are wonky. 

This is what an store bought stamp holder looks like.

But than is some plastic

9 hours ago, Nobody Special said:

Well, found a close match...in a Makita 9556. All the dimensions work except the screw end going to the gear box, which is 6mm to the Bostitch's 8. But the 9556 is designed for 220V, so if I recall correctly, that would draw a bunch of extra current and burn up the windings. No bueno.

And while I'm at it, picked up a caliper to measure all this mess, and it was reading exactly half what it should. Ended up having to pull the batteries and short the terminals to reset it before it worked right. Maybe rewinding is the way to go. It looks simple enough, but knowing how a motor works in theory and rebuilding it are two very different things. Screw up an intake gasket on a 318 and make a hidden vacuum leak say, and your Carter carburetor will never forgive you. I can't imagine it's better with electric motor.

Install it and upgrade the shop to 220V.