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I Forge Iron

Iron Fangs

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Everything posted by Iron Fangs

  1. Good to know, I'll worry about quenches for more advanced projects
  2. The bucket was cheap, I plan to eventually upgrade to a metal trashcan for a more permanent solution, but I misused the word quench, I was asking if I needed to put salt in water to cool metal, that was my mistake
  3. Went out and got this, now one question is this. Quench bucket, is regular tap water good or will I need to be making a Brine mixture?
  4. Not to get off topic but can I use a Slime (brand) tire inflator from my car as a bellows?Bellows? Or my air bed inflator?
  5. Good idea. Shouldn't be too hard to cut a notch or 2
  6. First forge: check! First Anvil: Check! First project?: a set of Tongs! Also, is it too cold to go outside? Is there no snow to justify how cold it is? Tired of your kids getting soaked and cold? Nothing 2000 cotton balls and some imagination can't solve!
  7. Seems like I was able to snag an 8 foot fence post, I should ve able to cut that into a nice stand, pretty sure it's a 4x6 too
  8. That is exactly what I was looking for, ask now and save a headache later right? Dont want to be halfway through my second project when my anvil stand breaks cause I oriented it wrong, I'll screw my 1x8 boards together (no idea what kind of wood it is but my dad built a shed out of it) and make myself a stand, thanks for the advice, Horizontal seems like it is more time consuming as well as inefficient, I won't waste my time!
  9. Alright, that will be much less time consuming anyway, I'll cut between 6 and 8 three foot lengths and bind them together with... probably a combo of wood glue and the brass screws I have (no particular reason. It's just what I have)
  10. Well that Log I got turned out to be rotted and is WAY too soft to hold the sledgehammer in place, but I have access to scrapped 1x6 boards, I'm thinking either cutting them to 3' lengths and binding them together to set them vertically (with the grain), or cutting them to 1' lengths and sticking them together horizontally (against the grain), which would work better to hold my Sledgehammer and hatchet?
  11. I'll do that then, my stump is kinda trapezoid shaped, about a foot high and about 15 inches across, I'm thinking about lowering my forge and getting myself a stool for convenience of use, but I can put the sledge and the hatchet at opposite ends of it
  12. Got my box all full of dirt, I stabilized the pegs with brass plated wood screws to keep it attached to the walker (legs/stand), it's got a 3/4in pipe for air intake and a Bag of lump charcoal (read briquets wernt great), now I just have to is assemble my Anvil and I'm ready to go! In terms of materials. I have a tree stump, a sledge hammer head (10-15 lb), that rail hammer head, that square brick of steel (about 2x2x6 inch), and a hatchet that is near separated from its handle already (for heat cutting im thinking), should I exclude any of those pieces?
  13. Most things have a use, right? On another note, is it a good idea to paint the outside of my forge or should I keep the wood "naked"?
  14. Noted. What would be a good example of how to use it? On another note, what is the best way to convert a 3 burner propane grill into a solid fuel forge?
  15. I mistook the model for the RPM. The model is Dremel 3000, but it is a 20k RPM, my mistake
  16. Good to know, I thought that kind of fine tip tool might be best for making stamps and engravings
  17. I have a question about something before I invest in this: I have a 3k rpm dremel, if I get metal engraving/grinding bits for it can I use that to make stamps?
  18. I'll keep thst in mind and test it with pieces to see what it does before using it 9n finished products
  19. I only plan on using it to finish flat projects like blades or maybe Hammers... might also be good to smooth or sharpen chisels
  20. No ID test I could see, but there was paint chipping off of it so it might have lost those markers
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