Jon108

Thank you

Lot’s of good food ideas ! 
 

Thanks,

Would very much like to see a photo !

Thanks to everyone!

Thanks to everyone 

Thanks everyone

The link to the vise and rr track is awesome

I am a beginner , so no power hammer or press. 
I do have a HF horizontal band saw, 

I thought being it was new, it has not work hardened from trains travelling on it. 
It looks nice sitting on top of a 6” by 6” by 4’ piece of Ipe.

Hi Everyone,

My buddy dropped off a 136 lb 3’ piece of NEW railroad track.  It has a large printed paper taped on to the side of the rail that says “New”.

I already have a couple of old railroad tracks in use as “anvils”, one vertical 30” piece and one horizontal 12”.

I appreciate any advice or ideas,

Thanks Frosty,

Amazing  how much a difference it can make, with the right hammer. 

Thanks Thomas,

Maybe that is why it has a really nice feel to it. 
 

Thanks Thomas and Frosty,

Yes, that is the hammer I have been referring to as a “mini-sledge”. 
 

Shorter hammer head( drone head to head in a straight line ). 
shorter handle as well. I will get a pic and some measurements

I am now considering the correct ratio between the hammer weight and the anvil weight. 
Thanks to the great advice given on this forum. 

I don’t know much about hammers.  This hammer belonged to my Father in law.  He worked at National box company  in the 1950’s, keeping the machinery running.  He also worked on cars.   The hammer has a short handle and a wide sledge hammer head.

I will post some pics as soon as my Iphone is working again.

i have a new cross peen hammer 1 1/2 - 2 lbs I also have a round hammer that is a bit lighter, which I like very much.  I did my best to dress them both. ( in a wee suit ) lol  

4 hours ago, JHCC said:

That will put you in a much better position for when you do jump into bladesmithin

Thank you JHCC,

I will take your advice, that makes a lot of sense. 
I have been watching a lot of blacksmithing basics with Alex Steele. 

3 hours ago, Marc1 said:

i was looking for a cartoon picture of a very large hammer on a very small vice but couldn't find it ...

Thank You Marc1,

Very funny !

I think I got to liking the mini sledge when I used it to make square heads out of hex heads in stainless steel 304 1/4” lag bolts. 
It went so easily and worked out nice, and I surprised myself on my success on my first attempt  

Thank You Thomas and Glenn,

I appreciate the advice

Thank you Thomas and frosty,

I will heed your advice.   
I prefer to forge outside in front yard of my shed, as I do with stick welding. 
I do have a CO detector in the shed, but if I am using the forge in the shed, I leave both windows and one door open as well as an air mover pushing air out of the window. 
It is attached to a hood that I can use to stick weld inside the shed. 
I can only swing that mini sledge for about 30 minutes in this heat.

I will try a hammer I bought some years ago which is about 1 1/2 - 2 lbs. 

I tend to be a slow learner.  I also try to be very safety oriented whenever I do any of my hobbies. 
I spent two years learning stick welding, by practicing laying beads and padding. 
I would practice with various types and sizes of electrodes as well as various thicknesses of steel.  This taught me the basic ability to learn from the puddle, and to whip and pause for 6010. 
Only then did I move on to making stuff. 
If I am able to forge a knife, I probably will send it out to be heat treated .

Thank You Thomas,

You nailed it on the head, I am very much still a beginner in forging anything, including knives. 
I have a good amount of mild steel, and I know it is not the correct steel to use for a knife, but I am still learning the basics. 
I will not forge on the post leg vice, thanks to your advice. 
once I develop some experience, and can forge the shape I am going after, I will move on to 1095.

I will just forge in my shed where I have post anvils and RR track vertically mounted.

The only anvil I have in the basement shop is a lowly cast iron anvil from HF OR GRIZZLY!

I know it will break, so I have never tried using it

Thanks again,

Hi everyone,

I have a few post leg vices, and I would like to forge 1/4” mild steel on the heel or anvil jaw ( not moveable ) with a mini sledge hammer to make a blade. 
I do not want to damage any of them. 
Two are mounted to a wooden work bench in my basement workshop and the other is mounted to a portable stand in my shed. 
Any advice is greatly appreciated. 
 

On 7/19/2020 at 11:57 AM, Glenn said:

• TPAAAT - Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique

Thanks  Billy and Glenn,

That is just what I was looking for. 

Thanks Thomas and Frosty,

I have a home basement wood and metalworking machines and tools. 
I have a shed since 2014, with a Chile two burner propane forge and some tongs and hammers.  I also have 3 post leg vices (two in the basement shop, one in the shed). 
I also have a 30” rail mounted vertically and a heat treated chunk of H13 mounted opposite the track. 
Everything is portable in the shed. 
Most of my experience is in stick welding with my miller Dialarc  

I also have a portaband saw in the shed with a table  

I have a TW-90 belt sander for stock removal in the basement along with a mill and lathe.

I love to weld, and have been slowly getting into learning about knifemaking and blacksmithing.

I am still concerned about using the forge in the shed , for a chance leak in propane connections

I have a manifold that connects two twenty pound propane tanks to the forge burners.

I have not used the forge enough to be comfortable with the connections.

 Thanks for any advice

ps

I have many more machines that I use occasionally.

15 hours ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

Just post here with pictures and we can help you get a good one. This thread may help with the decision.

Thank You for the guide to buying a used anvil. 
 

Thanks and what does TPAAAT meaning ?

I apologize for my ignorance? 
Is there an easy way to find my post and replies ?

Very nice first project!

How are you liking your new anvil now ?

 Thanks 

Jon

I am sorry to use the full quote, for I replied just before reading the “read this first “

My problem is room for a larger anvil, as well as the need to move it 15-20 feet. 
I am interested in making small items like nails and square head bolts as well as 4-6” knives. 
I want to buy a new anvil, for fear of making a mistake with the purchase of a used anvil. 
 

Thanks,

Jon

Thank you

I will read all that I am advised too and I am humbled by those of you with experience and knowledge 

Thanks for the welcome and advice

Jon

Hi everyone,

I am looking at a new Peddinghaus #5 anvil. 
I am a beginner at forging, and have about 6 years at stick welding. 
I have a few chunks of H13 and several pieces of Rail track. 
I also have 3 post leg vices, and have done hex head stainless 304 on the anvil jaw  

I am now looking for an anvil that will make it easier to do forging  

The size and weight of the #5 suits my needs for portability  

Any advice would be very much appreciated  

Thanks,

Jon

Hi everyone!

Happy to be here, among so many people with lots of knowledge and experience.