matthewfromers

I was talking to a nice gentleman in another forum and he suggested that the biggest problem was the choice of truck spring steel. For the chromo content that could be added to the alloy. In fact the test in w1 seems to be better and has not delaminated. I enclose a photo, I'm trying to use it to make a small Japanese spear planer. Looks like there's not delamination or other strange stuff.

Dear Neal, after taking the photos I tried to work the pieces, the one marked with the red of is literally open, detaching completely. While all other packages have opened. I assume at this point 2 things: - although they appeared to be correctly welded in the forge, in reality they were not. (and it would seem strange to me because I reach temperatures consistent with what is required). -I'm working the package after welding incorrectly, perhaps working it at lower temperatures. (never below red). All this is so frustrating.... Thanks for your support Neal, Matthew

Hello Neal, thanks you for the first reply! I realize I am not very practical about the forge weld and the delamination of the layers. By delamination do you mean this area here (red marked)? Or are there are others that I can't recognize? thank you very much for your contribution Matthew

Hello everyone, I'm Matthew, and I'm writing to you from Italy. I am 33 years old and for about a decade I enjoy making knives. After I built a Japanese bellows and had some experience with it, I moved to making some forge welds (something that had never come out in an appreciable way), these are the results after welding and acid etching. After this passage, everything seemed to me to be properly welded and no obvious signs were present between the metals or spaces. So I proceeded to heat the pieces and continue to work them, this time in both directions, to lengthen what was the package. But out of 5 tests, 4 have (unfortunately ) been opened. The method I used for welding in the forge was: remove oxides and slag with a sanding machine and leave the metal "naked". Clean the metal with a nitro thinner. Clamp the pieces and weld them with the welding machine, add a handle in 2 cases. W.ith the hot forge, bring the package to the red color and put borax, put the package back into the forge and bring the temperature up to the white (in a couple cases up to sparkling white). I've removed and tap immediately with a 2kg hammer, repeating the operation 2 more times (add borax, reach the temperature and beat). Everything look really cool but when i try lengthen the packege... it's open it up. I've try to weld forge iron (s275jr) and 1050 (from a spring truck) and iron and w1 steel (from an old file). I ask for support, advice, or any documentation that can help me understand where I'm wrong. Heartfelt upfront. In addition, I apologize if my post is not placed in the correct forum section. thank you, from Matthew