SoCal Dave

I got the pamphlet and took some pictures of the first few pages to show the footing requirements. There are two diagrams, photo not included, of type 1 & 2 together and a diagram of a type 3. I included a photo of the packing list date 1/23/1958 when it was shipped I assume.

What I know of the hammer is that I believe it is a 200 lb Chambersburg. I will know more on Sunday as I get a copy of the footing requirements.

The plans for a chambersburg hammer calls for 3 layers of railroad ties for the footing. The plans could be 50 plus years old. So, would it be best to follow the plans or use an isolated cement footing?

One option is to look at a California Blacksmith Association Education video's. Mark Aspery has 4 videos that go over making a grill with scrolls for a level III project. In one of the video's, he takes measurements from a drawing and calculates the length needed in stock. By transferring you project to a drawing, or having the drawing first, you could use that method and come pretty close to what you need. Go to: www.youtube.com/user/CBAeducation I'm not sure if this is what you need but it might help?

Great looking candle holders. Of course there are questions. How were they finished and what type of steel was used? Was this done by hand or power hammer and hand? Very, very nice work.

Frank: Once again you amaze me in your knowledge and willingness to share it with others. When you help one you help everyone looking for information. Thanks and keep it coming.
Your ex-student, Dave

Some burners require about 5 psi, or inches of water column for natural gas. You can call/email the company who made the forge and they maybe able to tell you what you need to know. Good luck.

A lot depends on the city, it's size, and the distances to your neighbors. I to live in a residential area, and thought about a coal forge, but have decided to go with propane and natural gas. I live in a horse community, and ten years ago, we still had some horseshoes that had coal forges. People were use to seeing smoke from these forges, and didn't call the authorities. But, not today, the AQMD, indicated to me that the smoke from a coal forge would not be acceptable, since there is an alternative fuel in propane and natural gas. So, I would set up shop, use a gas forge and be mindful of your hours hammering, using a chop saw, and enjoy your smithing. As a hobby, I don't believe you could be shut down. You have a right to do what you want, within limits, on your property. Good luck.

I forgot to mention that I heated the oil up to 125-130 degrees prior to quenching.

I purchased some 28 second quenching oil from McMaster-Carr. I made a 3/4" thick center punch from the 5160 stock I have. I heated the punch up to past non-magnetic for about 10 min. , quenched it in the oil, with a figure eight motion. I then ran the colors using a heated block of metal. I ran the colors just past straw and quenched it again. I tested the piece making center punch marks in mild steel and the point held up well. I liked the weight of the heavier center punch. Most of the ones I have are very small and have very little weight to them. They tend to move around if I 'm not careful and steady. I found that the 3/4" X 6" long piece has a nice heavy weight to it and stayed where I placed it. I will test it more to see if it holds up to more use.

When I looked up Chevron Quenching Oil 70, the MSDS sheet indicated that the main component is refined mineral oil. Has anyone used straight mineral oil. Mineral oil has not come up in conversations on the internet concerning quenching oils. Peanut oil, vegetable oil, motor oil, transmission oil, etc, have been mentioned many times. Did I miss something?

Have you ever test or experimented with a ribbon burner in one of your forges?

Thanks everyone.

Dave

What are some brand names of commercial quenching oils? And, where can one find these oils. I've seen some on the internet, but had difficulty finding locations to buy them.

I have no oil for quenching some 5160 steel. First, what are common quenching oils for 5160 steel that are easily available. One that I can go purchase tomorrow and doesn't cost a great deal for 5 gallons. I have read many internet sites and there are many recommendations. I need to get started with some reasonably good oil. The other issue is where to purchase or obtain such oil?

I wonder if case hardening would help. I don 't know how that would effect the metal you are using, but I've used Kasenit case hardening on mild steel and that has helped a lot.

Go for both. It's great to go out the back of the house and work on a project or practice. It's also nice to have a large shop where you can grow and grow and also be away from someone from the house interrupting you while you are working.

Monstermetal: If you could get me a price, that would be great. I do need one that can work off of 110 single phase power. Also, I do agree with Mainely Bob on the requirements as he has stated. I have seen Jet cold saws on Ebay, but have not thought of them since I don't have any experience with any of their equipment. How do they compare to Scotchman, Doringer, Baliegh, Dake, etc. Thanks for the input.

I've been looking for some time for a used cold saw. There are many out there and many opinions on them. I need one for my shop. I prefer one that is a bench model type that doesn't come with a stand. Also, I would prefer one that can cut a 45 degree angle from both side of the saw. I would appreciate anyones comments on their cold saw and what they think about the different brands out there. I think a 9 or 10" blade would be sufficient for my use.

Each forge requires a different minimum amount of natural gas pressure measured in lbs of water column. You have to check with your natural gas company on the amount to your meter and know how much your forge will require. . The one issue is adjusting the pressure to the forge when you need a lot of gas for some big items to heat. The manufacturer of your forge should know the minimum amount required.

I'm interested in these ribber/ribbon burners. I saw them about two years ago at a spring conference, but not much since. Where can I get some detailed information on them? Any youtube videos where I can see them in action?

In some of the picture of Darren striking, Brian is holding the material in the middle of the anvil. Won't this damage the anvil when he hits Brians die, and wouldn't it be better to have the material closer to the edge of the anvil?

I have a Thermal Arc Inverter that I use for tig welding. I can use it for arc welding but don't have it set up for that. I've had it for about 8 years and use it for steel and aluminum welding. It is great for both types of metals. I got it when electricity bills were going out of this world and it uses a lot less than other machines. Have a great time with it and enjoy it.

I also have been in search of a great gas forge for some time. I would look at Mankel, Chile, and Diamondback forges. Of course there are many many others. But, I am leaning toward the Mankel as most people who have had them swear they last forever, get very hot, and come with a blower. They are versatile because of their design shape, and have some adjustments to them. I hope this helps. I am in your position in terms of house location, noise level, and AQMD requirements that don't allow for coal/coke forges. Good luck and please post what forge you have chosen and if you can forge weld with it.

What went wrong? Was it quenching it in water, or working it at the wrong temperature?