SeniorNugg3t

2 heavy pours of Glaze Coat. There's about a half gallon on the table top. As I'm typing this, im standing here with the hair dryer waiting to kill bubbles as they rise. The tiniest of gaps in between the boards hold air and can ruin the coating.

Angle iron cap press-fit just like the bottom. drove it on until it was mostly level. Drilled holes and secured the top with lag bolts, and washers in between as necessary to bring up level. Bro... it's so heavy lol! I had to bring it in separately and put the top on it inside. Most of the weight is in the base. I added steel to the inside bottom of the base plate for weight. Post is prob 185-200lbs. Had to bear hug it and run up the steps to get it in lol.

Thanks! The top is lightly torched, hard to see in the light There is also some charring from fitting the hot steel straps. Glad you like it. Planning on tractor seat swivel bar stools

No need to bolt it its plently sturdy with the added weight, plus it's on tile. I have some glaze coat I'm probably going to throw on it tomorrow. I hit it with some more stain this morning. I know it needs a coating because the kids with that first cup of juice... but I'm working up the courage to do it lol!

First forge project was the straps. Top is butcher block pine 2x3's run longways. Framed in 2x3x1/4" L mild steel Center post is 6x6 ties. Base is 2x3x1/4" L mild steel with a big heavy 3/8" plate recessed in for weight and stability. Straps are 1"x 1/8"steel flat rod. I'm working with a 55lb track anvil and a 3lb slege for now lol.

Thanks Mike, Frosty, and others who helped me get going. First project out of the forge: Table post straps I've got a long way to go lol

Yeah it's working good. I'm going to bevel the air intake slots like you said though. I appreciate all the help so far gents!

Didnt get to this point yet, but backed up the flare a bit and recessed the burner into the liner a bit more. There is a bit of flare molded into the liner. The flame moved out to the flare. Ran it about an hour. the new forge design works well so far.

Okay, I can give that a shot. Gas pressure does move the flame cone out to the flare end but only at really high pressure. Increasing air velocity can only help.

I did shorten the flare, not much difference, until I started getting flame-outs

Okay, got hot pretty quick on first firing. Metrikote turned a light ashy gray. Flare is still getting hot and turns orange pretty quick. How can I keep the flare cooler and still have a good flame? Just back it up some more?

Okay, got it. I had firebrick doors before. Thx Got the front door built and hung so now the shell is all closed up. IFB has been rigidized and metrikote applied. Mixed a little blue food coloring with it to show coverage. I put a heavy coat of Metrikote on it a few days ago. It's not as hard as I thought it'd be. Actually it's quite soft and kind of chalky. Does incrementally firing it harden it more? I'm leaving the back open and planning on just stacked bricks for the rear wall and adjustable exhaust vent. It's rough looking still and I haven't cleaned it up yet. Pics coming once it's more presentable.

I'm well acquainted with them lol. I'd love to build one for a tow pig and swap an old 12 valve in it.

Okay, got it. I had firebrick doors before. Thx

Rework progress... Okay, busted all the brick out. (2) 1" layers of IFB all the way around. Rigidized sort of. I ran out pretty quick, have some metrikote on the way. The floor of the chamber has hard split bricks that are replaceable over fire blanket. Have a beer bottle pressed in shaping the burner hole. Got some 1/16" steel sheet metal to closeup the shell. Bought some heavy gate hinges for the front and back of the chamber and i'm going to build some doors. Have some more IFB on the way to line the doors. Trying to figure out how I'm going to make adjustable openings on the doors. Maybe use stainless pins or something. I'm sure I'm going to hear about something I missed. Fire away... Question, is a castable liner more for longevity or is it going to up the heat? I see forges running both ways.

^^^ super cool truck!!

An M38A1 with a good driver picking lines can go about anywhere. Plus the cool factor or those things can't be beat. LOL!! yeah man. It's like being in a Southern California Starbucks. It's like a language of it's own. I'm all, "I just want a coffee...?"

So an alumina-silica mortar can be used to cover fire blanket?

So I found what i think is a good deal on some IFB and rigidizer on eBay... also some K-Bond. Are these good deals? https://www.ebay.com/itm/201581718286 https://www.ebay.com/itm/263583477883 I think I'm going to keep the hard brick floor i have, cover it with some refractory, and knock out the hard walls and roof brick and replace with with 2 layers of 1" HTZ and button up the outside with sheet metal. Is the K-bond going to work going over the IFB as a hard liner? Do I need to do the whole thing, or just the walls and floor? I was thinking of pressing a hard split brick that I already have into the side of the IFB where the flame reflects off the floor. shouldn't be too much of an issue since I'll have an IFB liner and it should help my liner live a while longer.

Thanks Das, The CJ7 I got with a fresh reman'ed Jasper 258 in it with a rebuilt drivetrain (T-176/D300). 1,500 miles on a restore that had been done about a decade earlier and garaged. Bought it from a rich elderly couple in Emerald Isl. I built it into a functional do-all wheeler/DD. It came with the CJ D44/D30 W/T combo. I soon regeared and built/locked a set of D44 waggy axles front and rear for the strength and added width since it was lifted and on 37's. I also took the Np435 (Ford 4spd w/ granny) that I had adapted into my Maroon wagoneer and installed it in the CJ7 as well. The wheelbase is stretched a little and suspension is outboarded on the Cj frame. Tire carrier is home brew as well. This thing climbed and crawled like a mountain goat and still would run 75mph on the highway just fine but became more of a DD than I wanted after I sold my bike. I was putting 40+ miles a day on it and burned off the 37's driving to work with only a handful of really awesome wheeling trips on them. I stepped down to 35's and drove it for a while that way but couldn't justify keeping it since my three kids are getting bigger. The maroon grand wagoneer i bought while stationed in San Diego back in '07. 2nd owner-family to the 1st PO. bone stock with a worn out motor and a terrible case of wag-sag. Not a bit of rust on it and the body was perfect. Lifted it and threw on some 33's and ran that way for several years. Bought the white '88 waggy one for the fresh AMC 360 Napa crate motor it had in it for $700 and parted it out. Built the motor up and swapped it into the maroon '89. Then I went crazy... stretched it, locked it, converted the 727 auto to the Np435 manual. That was all custom as the later model wags didn't have option for manual trans and the floor pans didn't have any knock-outs. sorting out the linkage took some good math lol. The thing would do 4 wheel drive burnouts on the street but was SUPER thirsty for what it could do! I'll never build another AMC v8 again for that reason. Inefficient as all get out for the power it puts to the wheels. You can build a Chevy or Ford motor of similar displacement for about 75% of the cost in parts and have about 25% more power using the same amount of fuel. I mean if I'm pulling 8mpg, I might as well have the big-block power to go with it. Yeah, I'll build up another one someday but honestly I'm having fun playing with my two 7.3 powerstrokes and they spend a lot more time driving than broke in the garage. That leaves me time to do other things with the wife/kids or messing around with metal.

Mowar jee pics! Loved this CJ7. Recently sold to buy another house and fund some other projects. I've had the bug since I was a kid. I've had a couple grand wagoneers, so Cherokee, and yjs.

The picture with the hose... The forge had not even been fired yet and hose was placed on the cart to keep from running over the regulator when pushing it into the corner. When the forge is hot the hose is well clear and safe. When it's running the tank is taken off the back of the cart and placed as far away as the hose will allow.

Thanks, much appreciated.

HAHA thanks Frosty. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OU2Y62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I thought this stuff would suffice. I have a good bit left lol! Eventually I'm going with the ceramic wool insulator and hard refractory liner as suggested.