rokshasa

im gonna try this again lol, here are some pics of a knife i made a few weeks ago.11 1/2 over all, 8 3/4 blade, coper fittings and a white ash handle , had a little bit of a hard time with the handle but its on there now lol, they are the first fittings i ever made .comments welcome and encouraged.

i'd get it just for the blower but then again you can never find any around here, but i'd still get it even if i wasn't going to use the pot.you never know when another will come up!

yup thx for thinking of us

we need pictures as well lol

i may be needing some but i need to know where you are to see if its worth the shipping

what i would do is taper the end of the tang down then on the pummel just drill one hole, counter sink it and peen the end into itthen grind flat to match the fitting. but thats just me.

yup thats pretty much how i do it as well, forge, anneal, grind/sand, norm x 2 or 3, check it out real good, harden , test hardness(with a sharp. file) then temper(dif. temper prosedures depending on the blade shape and use)then i test the finished product .but yeah i like to get it mostly done befor the heat treat, its easy...er to work and you have less chance of messing up your heat treat. but most of my work is done with the hammer for minimal sanding and grinding, this however take practice.

this i think is the best "newbe" thread yet lol, thomas and reefera4m put up some good points as well as the others who have posted, but i would lean toward the spring steel befor the spike knife, i get them free from any garage i come by...i just go in and ask them if they have some old coils around, broken or discarded and ask to pick them up. they are always happy when i come and RID them of there junk lol. most of the time a metal recycler will pick them up and he wont even pay the garage so i dont see what the diff is if its me instead.

funny you should put this up i just did my first scale handled knife yesterday, i used pins only and the fit is not 100% but with epoxy all the little things would be filled in for a better hold. thx

well im no expert but i dont think oil would be the way to go, if anything i would use a warm brine rather than strait water. keep in mind that the jack hammer cuts stone and concret, as for the temper i would draw it to a dark straw to a light purple so that you have some hardness but not to much that it will snap under the strain of use. (anyone feal free to stop me if you know better lol)

nice work, looks like you had a great time, really like your shop you have some nice tools.

yup after 2 years of smithing i can only now tell(or i've only now noticed) that my hammer tech. is better , when i work on a project i can see where my hammer has to go to make the metal move the way i want and thats pretty much what its all about...learning . as for working on the floor, many ppl in many contries work on the ground but i prefer standing, it's really a question of comfort and what you have available, if your having trouble try setting up stands, having evrything in relatively close to the forge is also helpfull to me i try and keep evrything i use the most (anvil, forge and vise) no more than 3 to 4 feet away in a trangle setting
that is the forge is 3 to 4 feet from the anvil and vise ,the vise the same and anvil the same. hope this helps some.

that is one nice piece you popped out , well done. worth every penny im sure.

that IS a really neat one. im gonna have to try(do) that

....ooookkkkkkk.... should you even be playing with fire?

i like the whole theme thing you have going, SEPTIS!, hahaha you cant wright that stuff, "its gold Jerry!! GOLD!"

document restraining device hehehe

love that cap on the top , would look awesome with something else up there too a ball or a spike maybe, i'll have to try that. really like the handle , just tops it all off. well done

had my 2 year old in the smithy the other day and all he could say is " cool huh!?" lol i love it. nice little set up they got there lol , its almost better than mine lol!

man im gonna have to get myself a portable setup as well lol! i guess it'd be the best way to advertise and the cheapest. congrats on the sales! thats always fun. is there any farmers markets up your way, that would be the best,a weekly show or by-weekly just to show new projects and give ppl an idea of the thing we can do.

really junker? why do you have to wait so long? you'd figure after it was baked on it would be safe? do you have to let it set into the steel? i'm not saying your not right, i'm just thinking if it work i'd probably do something like that for some of my stuff.

really nice, i like the blunt end on the other side. well done.

well its really well done , good work.

im betting a sledge can make a good axe, you dont really have to forge weld a bit in, you can make it in one peice just make sure you temper properly. its better for a "field axe" not to be to hard so you can sharpen it on the field.i used a 5 1/2 lbs shaft cut of and forged it into a large axe a while back "http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f79/battle-axe-12144/?highlight=battle". not a felling axe but you get the idea.

im really loving this knife! the pattern is just awesome, the handle is very well done(love the copper) and the sheath just wraps it up in a nice package , is that snake skin? it compliments the the blade very nicely. for all a strangers word is worth, good job!

i bet he has the nicest box in town! nice job