rokshasa

maybe he wants to crucify someone...did you do a backround check on this guy . those are real nice spikes

wow that is super nice man! very nice. the patern finished very nicely

i would put some pins in that as well as apoxy just to keep it all nice and tight and fill in the gaps that may be present between the handle and the tang. if you want the pins to look better flatten the sides of your handle so that the pins can finish flush to the surface, if your hadle is rounded on the sides you'll want to get the pins that way as well and that could deform them and lead to disapointment lol trust me i know :)

would't you be able to wax the area you didn't want the acid to touch, that way you can etch after. i'm thinking it would be easyer to get the blade finished this way? just an idea.

nothing like birds eye maple, very nice

needed a pick to clear the gutters of ice, jumped in the forge and made one, now i use it all the time.

i think you may be right on that one. good eye.

i find white ash makes a good wood for this, its hard enough to make good handles and has a soft grain that burns well while leaving the hard grain unburnt, just a little pass with the torch and there you have it.

here is a seax i made last week. it was made for a 64 layerd billet composed of some saw blades i had.
the blade is 8" long
the knife is 14" long
not to sure what the wood is, it was given to me by a freind
the spacers are stainless steel and brazilian nut of some sort.

hello again ppl. i have just finished this one yesterday. its a 32 layer spear point dagger, i used some 1080 and 15n20 , the cross guard and but cap are some kind of spring steel . i used some Lignum Vitae i got from a friend of mine for the handle , i think it matches pretty good.the over all length of the dagger is 12" , the blade is 6 1/2" long. the hardest part for me was the cross guard not that it was so much hard that it was nerv racking lol but i got it done.thx for looking.

sure i see your point, but you wont see me asking something like that, is all. i just couldn't justify it .i have 2 like that at the camp, maybe i should compete lol

lol where do ppl come up with this stuff hahaha. hope something happens to that guy to set him strait....

cant really judge from the price, the guy i got my stuff from was gonna give it to me, i couldn't take it and had to pay him, there was over 8000$ worth of equipment, some times they do just want the stuff to be used. although it is to bad , it gives ppl who are just starting a chance. if i hadn't have found this guy i would't even have 1/4 of the things i do. its sad but thoughtfull if you ask me.

looks like good stuff to me, dont feal so shocked ,for me to get good coal i have to pay 700 a tone and thats not delivered to my house...

real nice work man, real nice. i love that pin man it's pretty awesome yet very simple. what did you use to make the roses(parent stock)

very nice man. how long had you been smithing befor hand?

well it wasn't that bad really . i fullerd the neck the shaped the mushroom over the far edge of the step on the end of a 5/16 round stock then fullerd under the lip to start the tac end, cut off and square then notch. then i'd just start over.

here are some things i put together yesterday. guitar stand is for my son, he got a small guitar for x-mas, i put some temporary wool padding. second some knobs i made for a fella who does custom boxes, sais he is having a hard time finding little knobs so he asked for ten of these mushroom looking ones, was really fun making them. i took a file to the head then heated it with a torch till it hit blue then brushed it a little with a whire brush to make it a little more subtle, i left the neck as it was out of the fire.

donno what you guys are trying to find but its not working lol. if you want to see some awesome examples of scroll jigs try and find brians post on the golden mean(variation of the golden ratio, 1:1.6), it had detailed pictures and prosses as to how to make a nice scroll and jig, this is what i use to form some of the jigs i use. here is the link to the topic " . hope that works.

i have made hammers(more work than its worth) and axes from train track but as you say cutting it is the worst and that is why i use it so sparingly.

woke up one day and just had to smith, was lucky that i found an older fella that was downsizing his shop. sold me all i needed to start including a small rivet forge and a drum of coal , 3 years later and i have a way better setup than i would have ever expected. now i cant put my hammer down lol

i think ldw has it right, working the metal to cold can break apart weak welds. most of the time i weld the bar a little at a time then when it has been welded i go over it again with welding heat and re work the whole bar, then i grind all 4 faces to see what i came up with, that way weak spots can be singled out if there are any and re worked yet again. sounds like alot of work but if it saves your project why not take the extra time. good luck in the future

love the grind with the fresh forge finish , really looks nasty lol, in a good way :)

yes it is, there is some technique to it as well but basicly just heat and twist.

love that "mouse" knife, really nice for your first ones! really nice! guess thats the diffrence good help gets you lol, i learned on my own and i can safely say that i'm with golgotha, mine wher not nery as close to looking that good...at all lol. so good job and i hope you can get up and running a.s.a.p cuz we all know you are jonesing for another go lol.