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I Forge Iron

Pault17

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Posts posted by Pault17

  1. WD,
    The back is 1/4x1.5 bar stock. The pivot is a scrap piece of 1/8" plate that I cut into a cross or + sign. I bent the two sides to match the thickness of the knocker plus a hair. The pivot is riveted top and bottom to the back with 1/8" rivets and the knocker pivots on a cutoff piece of 5/32 drill bit shank. The bottom of the knocker hits right over the bottom screw hole, and yes Bentiron, I will give them some blackened screws:D.
    Using an idea I read about in the blueprints, I used a thin cardboard shim on one side of the knocker that burnt out, allowing a little play in the knocker swing.

    When I asked my wife to hold it and said "nice knocker, huh?" she only smiled a little:rolleyes:

  2. Sam,
    I regularly tell people that my biggest hobby is banging iron. They always seem amazed that someone would actually still do that kind of stuff and ask if it's hard. I always tell them that I work in the 1800 to 2100 degree range (this gets the :o look) and at that temp, it's like hitting hard clay. The biggest problem is the potential for burns.

  3. I know it's crude looking, but I wanted to try a few different techniques that I have been studying and thinking about. The knocker is a spike that has been drawn out. The bird/eagle head at the pointy end was an accidental afterthought. When I finished the curves on the knocker I realized that the point end looked kind of bird-like. I realized after the fact that I should do the animal head, or any other fancy stuff BEFORE the curves are put in.

    The top was an attempt at a one-piece fleur-de-lis.

    Door_Knocker_2.JPG Door_Knocker_1.JPG

  4. My first forge was a bean-can fired with mapp. I did accidentally make one forgeweld but didn't find it till much later::( now I have no idea how I did it.

    my latest forge is a "balloon time" forge fired with a Rex Price Shorty. The sides and rear are lined with 2 inches of kao-wool coated in satanite then itc-100. The bottom is 1-inch firebrick front to rear, with large opening in front small in rear.

    I haven't tried to forge weld in it yet, but everything I have worked on, which is to say anything I can fit in or through the cavity, has been worked at a regular bright orange using only 3-4 psi. sometimes as much as 5 when I fill the chamber up.

    I have built all of them following directions from here, anvilfire and rex price. I never really did any calculations. I guess I just got lucky:D

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