JustAnotherViking

Today I made a small bending jig. Simply slide the halves closer or further to adjust

Did a small test to bend a hook, worked fine. Might make another couple with different sized bars to bend around. 

How useful it will be remains to be seen. 

The next project today was another bottle opener

Finally tody I started on my first knife using a bit of coil spring. 

Other than using it for making a few punches (taper, grind, heat treat), this is my first real time working a higher carbon steel. That stuff certainly fights back compared to mild steel!!!

No pictures yet... It's currently in the oven to temper, so hopefully I'll have something to show at a later stage if I don't make a complete mess of grinding and profiling the edge.

All being well it should loosely resemble a viking style seax. 

4 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

I also worked on a Flying V guitar bottle opener for one SiL; I'm on the mark 3 prototype and it may be the one that gets sent. 

Any pics of it? (and/or the other versions) 

Quite curious to see the design and how the opener part works 

Don't forget to paint your anvil a bright colour so you can call it 'art' if questioned ... Spots or stripes and a face for bonus points 

Today I made v2 of the guitar bottle opener. Much improved on v1 but the aspect ratio of the body is still a bit off 

I also finished off a couple of new punches to try and speed up the skull opener... And subsequently made a skull

Not quite right, but getting there. Few improvements to the process to figure out still

Lastly I made a bunch of keyrings using offcuts from previous twisting projects... No point in throwing the left overs out

That looks like a serious bit of kit! 

Now you'll have to put it to use and see how complex you can get 

Haven't tried truly octagonal, but I have sanded an oval handle to a more octagonal shape. 

If you imagine a rectangle drawn around the oval, and just gently knocking the corners off... If that makes any sense at all. 

Yes to blisters, but no more than switching to any new handle with a different profile to your established calluses. 

I quite like it for indexing the position of the hammer and the general comfort 

Yes it works fine provided it's a suitably sized extractor, ducting and hood over the forge. 

Doubt a domestic kitchen extractor would work. 

You can just about make out such a setup in this image:

The ducting takes it across the shop to a wall vent on the other side where two other hoods and extractors join. 

I can possibly get more info/pics on Saturday when I'm next down there. 

I assume this is just an exercise in experimenting with the steel rather than trying to save cash? 

I would imagine just buying a new purpose made pry bar would be more cost effective than the time and fuel involved in trying to modify a perfectly good tool

Finished up a few more bits for the doors of the shed. 

Happy enough with how that looks until I get a new idea.

Just one more bolt to replace at the top of the door now. 

Nice work. Wish I was sent home with clay to practice first! 

My first tongs were more like: Left left left, spend two hours drawing out one reign, stress crack, right right right, two more hours, notice the mistake, left left left, two more hours, burn in half, left left left, up to version 7 or 8 before I had two halves to fit together. 

Depends what you're planning to cut and how accurate you need it to be. 

Perfect straight or mitred cuts for structural work, you'd want a proper band saw so you can adjust and fix the tracking of the blade to get precision. 

Just wanting a faster, neater way of cutting(compared to a grinder), with the flexibility of moving the blade to your work, even at awkward angles, go for the porta band. 

Another factor is how much will you be using it? Stationary tools tend to be harder wearing and can take more daily abuse than scaled down portable versions. 

Personally I'd go for a proper band saw, preferably one that can be operated in a horizontal and vertical position. Not the cheapest bit of kit though. 

Blade availability, pricing and longevity should also be a factor in your decision. 

After adding the new bolts to the doors, I decided today that I'm going to have to change the rest of the door hardware to match. 

This was the first piece to go:

So far I've just changed the bolt. I shall have to aquire some suitably sized stock and make matching replacements for the other bracket parts 

To be continued... 

12 hours ago, Joel OF said:

I use a standard size galved metal bin

Did you have to do anything with the seams to seal it? 

I bought one for that very purpose, but it's press fit rather than welded. 

I tried sealing it with normal white silicone, but it didn't stick, then I tried some high temperature stuff. While it did stick, turns out it's water soluble. 

I'd much prefer to be complaining about the cold. At least you can put on more layers, light a fire. 

Too hot and there's only so much you can strip off. 

5 minutes at 250 degrees or 5 seconds at 2500 degrees.

Sounds like a plan. 

The first thing I finished off today was a towel ring

Next up was a simple bracket to hold the grinder when not in use. It ain't pretty, but it is functional. 

Next up... You guessed it... Another bottle opener! 

Time now for a quick lunch then back to it. 

Frost everywhere and I have the only roof in sight with no ice on it... Perfect hobby for this weather 

7 hours ago, arkie said:

if you drill holes in the concrete, consider using some steel pipe inserts.

Many thanks for the suggestion. I don't have anything suitable on hand, but I'll keep that in mind and keep an eye out

Ouch! I assume you're either stitched back up or sporting a nice nose ring at this point?

Silver lining and all that 

Wire wheel then boiled linseed oil. Nothing fancy. 

Santa brought me some bees wax, so I'll have to try a few pieces with it later. 

Great video. A serious amount of work! 

Do you use the 15kg Brooks much? 

Today I made a set of bolts for the shed doors so I can pin them open when the forge is lit (in windy conditions, to stop them blowing closed) 

Naturally I measured wrong and had to make a second set of bolts. Fortunately they were a bit better matched than the first try. 

Got all the parts installed. 

Tomorrow I'll drill holes in the concrete slabs outside the shed and see if they work. 

May have to add another piece or two for stability or make a third set of bolts but using bigger stock, possibly round instead of square so it's  tighter in the brackets... Or shrink my brackets... We shall see. 

Might also have to replace the other factory made bolts and brackets that came installed to something of a similar aesthetic 

Do people tend to radius both sides or just one? 

I've one side done. Bigger radius towards the bick, narrow towards the heel, but have left the other side fairly sharp. 

Recently I've been thinking it would be useful to radius at least part of the bick end of the other side too rather than moving around the anvil to use the radiused part depending on what I'm doing.

The weight in CWT notation. (hundredweight) 

First number is the number of 112lbs.

Second number is the number of 28lbs

Third number is the number of 8lbs.

Ah yes, the traditional cardboard and black pen,  blacksmith sign. A true classic. 

Joke aside, that's impressive writing. My attempt would look like a two year old did it 

CO as in carbon monoxide. Maybe you should spend a little time reading before charging ahead in a dangerous manner and misinforming others as you go through your own inexperience. 

There are plenty of threads on the topic of gas forges and the inherent dangers here, and plenty of other sources of safety based information you should consult immediately via a quick Internet search using your preferred search engine before you do yourself harm.