Mills

an interesting read is the research put out by Gary Kleck,
From www.guncite.com
Gary Kleck's voluntary disclosure statement that appears in "Targeting Guns":

"The author is a member of the American Civil Liberties Union, Amnesty International USA, Independent Action, Democrats 2000, and Common Cause, among other politically liberal organizations He is a lifelong registered Democrat, as well as a contributor to liberal Democratic candidates. He is not now, nor has he ever been, a member of, or contributor to, the National Rifle Association, Handgun Control, Inc. nor any other advocacy organization, nor has he received funding for research from any such organization. "

With that as his background he started researching gun ownership in the US in the 70's and has come to the conclusion that guns aren't the problem, people are. a man of integrity who followed the research where it led. He also some very pointed remarks in his work about political points being made with no justification for the premise. I believe that much of what he has concluded for the US could apply or at least guide the Scottish discussion. In particular, Kleck refers to the culture of firearms and hunting in the US as reasons why increased ownership doesn't correlate to increased violence. This would be anecdotal for the Scot sword ban, but a good place to start.

Much of the argument for weapons is extremely simplistic and centered on the dynamics of the US. The same arguments aren't very sound outside of this culture. Somalia comes to mind. weapons were easy to come by but there was no real government or respect for the same. Rwanda had a complete break down in the western idea of governance. One side thought they were completely justified. So did the Nazi's. And they were VERY law abiding.

I personally choose to read and study policy and if it yields a desirable result for the population as a whole then it should be implemented. Some times that may mean gun bans, or martial law, or grounding all planes.. etc. It is called leadership. and there should always be opposing voices to maintain the balance. The opposition would ideally be based in logic and careful study as well.

Yeah, like that is reality. The best we can do as a republic is to expect sound leadership from our leaders and keep the stridency down to a manageable level. I am not sure what the Scots can do but I suspect something similar.

That is very clever. good job!

Thanks TD

When a question like this comes up I have a little black book "Glover's Pocket Reference" do a google and you'll see them listed for 9-15 dollars. I'd buy one for 30 if I lost mine. (course if it was all that was available, otherwise I want the 9 dollar one) It has the details of drilling and tapping as well as plumbing carpentry welding money countries.. neat little book. If you need more in depth questions answered shop for a used Machinerys' handbook. I got a couple off of ebay several years back.

Now Grant that is as succinct a definition of pricing as I've ever seen delivered. Will get that down in my stride right now.

BTW the business discussions on here are very very encouraging. I feel empowered (getting in touch with my liberal side)

JNewman, back when I was a good ol boy I'd of said that. Now I believe "by golly what a bargain you gave the man!"

yes indeed that is a good looking table. Because it looks a little unstable really makes it eye catching. Nice design, good execution.

270 feet. You'll have an opinion when you are through, whether it is worthwhile. happy hammering.

CPA solves a bunch of my problems like that. She is aproachable and friendly. She has a lot of experience and works with other experienced CPA's. Difficult quetions may cost me but an inquiry like this will net me a answer along the lines of "if your consumption is more than.." and a call to the tax commission if it seems to be worthwhile.

I have and do recommend clapper dies for the project. Wear out a slap together die rather than an integral part of the machine. If you don't hold your mouth right it can hurt. I don't believe I'd do a long run cold. But that goes to my business model. I work hot predominately and find that type of work.

Rich, I am encouraged to hear your endorsement of 440C. I have been underwhelmed by SS for any cutlery. That there is a way of actually getting a good lasting edge from it when worked properly, gets me to thinking of a kitchen knife set yet again.

John that is a nice score. The overall appearance minus the tail is that of a colonial era anvil that Jymm Hoffman had cast. He may be able to shed some more light. He researched his to get it period correct for reenactments. He has posted on here but I haven't sen him lately.

Thomas Who is this man? I may have need later in the year.

That is a nifty technique will have to put it to use as well. Thanks for sharing.

Thomas the 110v machines that I have seen are rated for 20 amp. I regularly run mine on a 15 amp but it requires some finesse to keep from tripping the breaker. This is a necessity on a job site where many times there is a couple of 15 amp or 20 amp circuits and a lot extension cords all over the place. No 220 available.

I have a Lincoln 140 for onsite work. I do use gas shield and use cardboard or my body to break the wind when needed. I have used the hobart miller and offbrand machines. I'd take Miller as on par with Lincoln, hobart becomes my third choice and doing without over an off brand unless I could get one for $50.

? Frank I am pretty sure you demonstrated that technique to us at the Saltfork get together in Guthrie, Ok. I don't understand the question, I guess.

When I click on the post title, to open in a new tab, I am directed to the last read post.

Good Advice. You are motivated to get into something for yourself and that is a worthy goal. Debt free and money in the bank are is the launch point you want to establish before full time. Don't leave somewhere you don't like, go somewhere you want to be and can commit to. As well tho is establishing a business attitude.

The one item that is making a huge improvement in my business this year is belonging to a business network group. Specifically BNI. The members there are actively listening to send business to me as I am for them. I have made several thousand from this association and have sent more than a thousand to others. It is more important to me in that I can talk to other business owners I know and have come to trust about questions in their area of expertise. And who will commiserate with me. It is a lot like iforgeiron in that regard.

Developing a relationship with other local businesses goes a long way to getting and sustaining a business venture. I have a year of experience with this and am now ready to endorse this setting as a very good idea for startup and young businesses. may not be so beneficial to established businesses.

You are correct 800 degrees is when we quit working steel and get it HOT again. To do a pizza oven You will need some refractory brick and cement. Look around for boiler supply places in your town or online. Search for castable or rammable refractory. There is quite a bit made for different things. There may be some pottery supply outfits that would have the best price and best fit for your needs. AS for 800 degrees well lump charcoal and a little air supply should so the trick. How you will tell the temp I don't know.

Build it right and when have your pizza cooked you can pound on some steel for digestive purposes

Welcome to IFI

For new projects I have never made before I'll shop for similar items and use that as a start. Your doing all hand work so thathas an intrinsic value. Bragging rights if you will. But also the flinch factor comes into play, set your price as high as you dare then add a bunch to it. double it. see How much THEY value your work not how much you do. Most people sell too cheap, myself included. Don't set prices based on your wallet but on theirs. If you don't deliver as promised you loose business if you do you gain.

There are videos on youtube of forges built. search induction heater as well as forge. There are some web sites that also walk through the process.

What fuel do the locals use? That would be the fastest method to get to forging. Or a waste oil forge using diesel or oil from the motor pool.

Terrific, that is a neat design. It is certainly new to me and I find the possibilities for it are tremendous. Thank you.

The quaterfoiles are welded? I don't see it. That is slick. I just noticed the finials appear to be forged from the solid as well. Nice work. I think all of the elements are very well executed.

Not to sound too wise and knowing, First time I ran into the problem described I had been using anthracite coal, no coking at all. Just shovel it in. I ordered some known good coal from Kayne (Blacksmith depot now) and was VERY upset when It wouldn't get as hot as the coal I was using. I was shoveling it in and it would swell and choke off my air supply. I crank harder and pour on more coal! After going through 25 lbs pretty quick I began to realize that this stuff was acting like jiffy pop. That is when the terms of coking and free swell index became a real description rather than a nebulous term bandied about by the old codgers who would laugh at neophytes such as myself.

Anyway, from a totally green coal start, get it lit and burning and smoking. It swells and smokes more. Poke a hole in the top and let some flame out. The flame burns a good portion of the smoke and we are on our way. a few minutes of air supply and there should be a decent amount of burning coke maybe even going to hollow already. push in from the outside so that the coke breaks free like a glacier and gets into the party. use the poker to break it up a little. experience will teach you how much fussin to do with "herding" the coke into the fire. As you do more green coal is coking on the outside and rebuilding the wall. This can be configured in many ways. I generally kept the top clear and used the sides and back to create reflective walls. The front was where I had a path of coke and ash, the top so I could watch. When forge welding I would create the oven. Long pieces I only had the two sides or sometimes I would make a bridge.

In a young fire there is coke and it is plastered together with green coal starting to coke. Then there is green coal. This is what it seems you maybe having trouble with. As the fire matures there is sufficient time for the fire to coke the walls such that there isn't a dividing line between coal and coke. It is more of stages. I also found that the more impatient I am the more I create a solid mass that I am always having to break up. Another discovery is that there is no hard and fast rules for handling YOUR coal in YOUR forge. I watched everybody else and tried to pick up better techniques from observation and analysis. Mainly I slowed down. That may not be your problem. You'll have to decide how much advice applies.

That sums up my knowledge, I can clarify any of the above, if asked.

Most straightforward method would be good hammer control. I have tried that method since it looks so good and clean. Generally I went to using long stock and gripping between my legs. In effect becoming my own striker. More recently though, I go to my treadle hammer for the help.

LOL, you are seeing a desirable characteristic in a quality met coal, the coke button or free swelling index. With this property you can bank your coal around the blast, it will coke and form an oven. by husbanding this formation you can use less fuel to get the same work done. Once the coke is formed then green coal is coked on the sides to replenish the walls as the interior is used up. This keeps the smoke down as you forge.

Sounds like some good stuff.