Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Derek Haiges

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dundee, Illinois

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I plan on entering the 3/4" pipe through the back of the forge. Back blast, if thats a thing? All i know is that it would not be a bottom blast. Imagine the difference between an open end garden hose v.s having a shower head. Im deciding if i should leave the end of the pipe open, or cap the end and drill a series of smaller holes? How will they differ in terms of temperature, fuel consumption, overall heat etc. Personal opinions are also appreciated. Thanks- Derek
  2. Constructing coal forge. I am deciding whether to simply leave the end of the pipe open, OR cap the end and drill holes/ grind slits perpendicular to pipe. One large opening V.S. many small openings Am i correct in assuming that the first option will create greater temperature due to more air concentrated, while the ladder will spread out the heat over a larger area? What are the pros and cons of both. If anyone has experience or knowledge regarding the topic, it would save me much trial and error. Thanks -Derek P.S. Im using zomax hand crank blower. Any suggestions on pipe diameter? I plan on using 3/4"
  3. I am new to knife forging and would love to get into Japanese blades. I have a couple questions and would appreciate any feedback in hopes of saving myself some trial/ error. I have watched hours of videos but unfortunately most will tell you what they are doing instead of why. 1.) Does only the Habaki touch the scabbard? I understand the blade and tip do not touch, does any of the spine touch? 2.) Can i leave a ricaso on the blade to act as a Habaki? If so, do i need to taper it down like a habaki or can i leave it with 90degree edges on the spine side? Basically trying to avoid the more complicated parts like the Habaki and seppas for now while i dip my toe in the water. -Thanks, Derek
  4. Basically i would flip anvil upside down and spray everything exposed. So not the face or maybe an inch away from the face so it doesnt melt being so close.
  5. In terms of quieting an anvil, has anyone attempted to spray multiple coats of rubber on the underside? And or any reasons not to. My thinking behind this is that if sound is vibration, would rubber absorb some of the vibrations quieting the anvil?
  6. Anyone wanna help me Anvil shopping? I am on the market for a German style drop forged anvil. Things to consider: 1.Shape, 2.Ringing noise, 3.Name brand perception. Kanca VS Ridgid-Peddinghaus Note: The Peddinghaus has a slightly larger working surface all around within a half inch, and $200 more. 1.) The most clear difference is the shape where the round horn meets the face. It appears the Kanca is rounded/ blended together while rigdid has more predominant edge. Does this serve any purpose, or just aesthetics? 2.) Because im forging in a residential neighborhood, i would like to keep the ringing to the minimum since blacksmiths are the only ones who dont mind the noise. If sound is vibration, does the base of either of these make a difference in terms of absorbing the vibrations? 3.) From what i hear the peddinghaus is known for quality. Key word is "known" (in the past) but with modern material/ process are competitors just as comparable, just that your paying more for a fancy name? Im not going to let price determine my choice, just curious.
  7. Thank you all for the advice. My next thought is to keep it at elbow height and make a wooden block to stand on, raising my height. This way i wont compromise my back while doing all other work. I still dont see an option to add my location tho
  8. Am I crazy for wanting to lower my post vise ( Jaw height) to match my anvil height? I just got a post/ leg vise but have not set it up yet. Before I do, i would appreciate any thoughts. The thinking behind this is that i know with woodcarving theirs more control when your looking directly over the chisel. I did an imaginary test, and it feels more comfortable with a chisel at a lower height. Im debating whether i should keep it at its intended height, lower it (dig into earth) to reach the height of my anvil top surface, or somewhere in between. Since i am a beginner, i would hate to set this up lower and come to find all the reasons why not to. My Post Vise is 42" tall and my anvil height/ sweet spot is 28" tall.
×
×
  • Create New...