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I Forge Iron

Canlib

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  1. I was seeing similar results on early firings of my burner because the cast block of refractory was still damp. And then of course there is the "don't try to tune the burner outside the forge" thing.
  2. I didnt fire the narb outside the forge but my first firing wanted to blow out. I think the burner still being damp was a factor and I drilled out the crayons with a slightly smaller bit leaving the openings slightly undersized. As you can see in my previous post it works great now that it has gotten hot. Last time I ran it to fire the zirconium wash it ran those tight blue cones all the way to 20psi.
  3. Here's my second firing. First time with damp refractory on both the burner and the forge and wax residue still in the holes was bleak. This one brought a big smile to my face in spite of a snowy Farch day here in Canada. I followed Frostys T burner and NARB instructions carefully. Got Uni-cast 2600 from Plainsman Clay. Also zirconium and bentonite for the wash. I'll put that on tomorrow. Thank you Frosty!
  4. Thank you all for these clear replies! You saved me from myself! I'll continue my search for a local supply of high temperature castable refractory. 2200 degree is easy...higher temp not so common.
  5. Liner and IR coating I have my 20 pound propane tank prepared, my T burner built and the ceramic blanket and digitizer are on the way from Front Porch Forge in Edmonton, AB. I'm going to make the liner using 95% Zircopax and 5% Vee Gum T and use the same ingredients to cast the NARB. Can I use Alumina Oxide and Vee Gum for a brush on IR coating or should I stick with a thinner mix of zircopax or order Plistex from Wayne Coe? I can get these ingredients in 1/4 pound or 1 pound bags from Greenbarn Potters Supply in Surry, BC and I'm wondering how much to order for a forge this size.
  6. Thanks Frosty. I guess I'll go with the 20 lb bottle and we can experiment together!
  7. Smaller items, but I have enough bottle openers! Making tools and metal sculptures are my interests.
  8. Frosty I'm about to build a propane forge and your NARB and T burner have completely changed my plans. Do you have any advice on a forge design for general blacksmithing including welding. My question really is whether a 20 lb propane bottle is the best place to start for a ribbon burner forge?
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