MDDstudios

Mikey98118, mentioned putting a ribbon style burner on the bottom of the forge floor. My concern with that is keeping the forge portable. However, someone, not on this site, asked if would it be possible to run the pipe that goes between the burner head and the propane "T" joint (following Frosty's design), underneath the forge, if the forge had a flat bottom, such as a "D" shaped forge on legs. My concern with this is the radiant heat from the forge and the effect it would have on the piping.

This is all good information, and has been helpful. Apparently I need to take long look at ribbon burners, and modify my design more.

From what I have read about ribbon burners, the reason I have not seriously considered one is because they need a blower, and I am lacking electrical power where I forge. From what I understand though, you are writing that I could build one that uses air, and does not need a blower, correct. If that is true, about how big of a ribbon burner is needed per cubic inch? Also, why bottom mounted?

Yes, that does make sense. Thank you. I plan to use a couple pieces of [ channel steel to create a sliding rail system to move the bricks easily, and to keep them secure. What do you find to be a good size? 6" or 8" long? If I cut the forge down to that size, I should be able to make do with a single burner, correct. I meant a 100 pound tank. My fault. I do make knives. That is part of reason why I am planning on building a new forge. However, you are right. I want to use this forge for other projects as well, and a longer forge would eat up my propane. What would you recommend for a length size? 6" or 8", maybe? Could I still use a forge that long to heat treat knives, and possibly something longer?

My old wood forge that I have been using for the past four years is no longer keeping up with what I want to do, and needs to be fixed up, so I figured I might as well move on to a propane forge, and based upon everything I have read in this section, I figured that I should build my own. My parents always told me that if I was going to do something I should do it right. I have spent the last few weeks reading the posts in this section, and on Larry Zoeller’s forge site, dealing with building your own gas forge, and while I have the gist of it, I still have some questions, and appreciate any feedback on my design. Therefore, this post is just to make sure I have everything down, and to double check the information I already have. The purpose of this forge is to be a sort of multi-purpose forge. I have made several projecst from bottle openers to hose holders, and even a few knives. It was actually the current knife I am forging that made me realize I needed to upgrade my forge. I do eventually want to get into some larger projects, such as axes, larger candleholders, and damascus. I expect to eventually be doing some traveling with this forge setup so while I tried to design the forge to be compact, I also tried to keep it robust to handle travel. I figured the forge would be oval shape. The inner dimensions would be 12”L by 9”W by 5”H, equaling 540 cubic inches (CI). I was considering a 4”H or even 6”H, but thought that would be too small and too big, but as most of my projects are flat, I might go ahead a do a 4”H ceiling. The outer dimension I believe should be about 12”L by 7-8”H by 12”W, but this can be changed depending on any advice I get from this post. For the body I am considering using a cold-rolled piece of sheet metal 1/8” thick, and riveting it together. For the ceramic blanket/Kaowool I was thinking 2 seperate 1” blankets or even three 1” blankets. After that, ITC-100 or something similar in a ½”-1” thick layer. With the floor covered in high alumina kiln shelves, or duraboard. With insulating hard firebricks for doors covered with the high alumina kiln shelves, or dura board to reflect the heat better. I am estimating that this build will take 2 burners at ¾”, set in at an angle towards the floor to circulate the heat better. While I have downloaded Frosty’s “T” Burner, I am considering just buying a couple of burners from Larry Zoeller, because I am not sure if I am completely comfortable with creating my own burners, yet. As for a regulator, PSI gauge, and hose, I have plenty of propane stores in the area, so I should be able to find what I need simple enough. I think a 0-30 PSI gauge should be big enough. I know that TSC sells 100 gallon tanks of propane, is this a good size, or should I consider a different size? If this is a good size, do I need a specific kind or regulator? Do you think I will be able to achieve welding temperature, for damascus, with this setup? Do you believe I will be able to efficiently block off half of this forge and use only one burner, for smaller projects? How thick of stock do you believe a forge this size could heat to forging temperature?

Thanks for all the information. From what I have read here and on other sites, it sounds that this hammer might be out of my price range, but since it is at an auction who knows. Thanks again for the help.

In about a week I will have the opportunity to purchase a Little Giant 25# trip hammer, New Style, number H-6161, manufactured in Mankato, Minnesota. While I have done some searching and reading online, and this forum, I still have a few questions. From what I can tell in the pictures, the hammer does not look rebuilt. Are these type of hammers electric, I have read that they are, but would like some clarification? Is this hammer one speed, or can I control how fast/hard the hammer hits? How large of stock does it fit, I have heard it will work on steel up to 2"? What do I need to look out for when I check the condition of the hammer during the auction? How much should I consider bidding for the hammer? Is there anything else I should know? Since this may be my first hammer purchase, I want to make sure I have all of my bases covered before I invest in something this big.

Thank you. I appreciate the suggestions and information you have given me.

During the fall this year I am hopefully going to be part of a craft show, my first. The question I have is how big does my inventory need to be? The show is not large, as it is located in a small town, it should have about 20 or 25 vendors, and lasts 2 days. The thing is that the vendors either sell quilts/blankets, or food items (preserves, canned goods, etc.), so the couple of people I have been in contact with were excited at the prospect of a blacksmith selling items. The inventory I am planning on making will consist of mostly small items, bottle openers, pendants, horseshoe hoof picks, maybe a few horseshoe or railroad spike knives, railroad spike hooks, other hooks, and maybe a big ticket item if I have the time. So based on your personal experiences, how big should my inventory be? Do I need a license to sell at a craft show? Any answers are appreciated, thank you.

The post has been moved to the appropriate section.

Made a leaf triangle bell. First time creating a leaf, thought it went pretty well. Did not finish creating the rod used to ring the bell and a wall hook to hang it by, as I ran out of fuel, and I got tired of it raining on me every 45 minutes.

Welcome to "I Forge Iron." Hope you have enjoyed the many topics that these forums have to offer.

My first real project was a candle holder. No photo as it was given as a gift to my grandmother. It was made from a mild steel round rod, I think 1/4 inch, in the center was a sharpened tip pointed up to set the candle down on, while the rest of the rod was tightly spiraled around the point going outwards to form a solid circular base, with a handle that looped up and out, so the whole thing could be carried easily. While working on the handle it busted (melted) off about half way up, so I flattened and split the ends where the steel broke, scissored and hammered the ends together in an attempt at welding, then wrapped thin brass wire around the fix on the handle to hide the fix, and give the whole piece a decorative flair. You could barely tell that the handle was broken and fixed, except for a slight bump in the brass wrapping.

That is good to know. I will keep an eye open to their schedule, to see if I can catch a meeting.

I agree with Glenn. However, try an auction. While it takes a little looking to find an auction with the right equipment, I have seen and bought some equipment for a good low price, but the price depends if someone else is bidding against you. Still, welcome and have fun with what you make.

When it comes to jokes and puns I do not know any, but if one develops I strike while the iron is hot. I have looked up the Saltfork Craftsmen and while I am interested in joining most of my money goes to schooling, and I am saving to get some needed PPE and steel.

Thanks for the compliment. Currently I am using a full sized Whitlox Wood-Fired forge (currently using coal, but am switching to wood) and a NC 112lbs. Cavalry Anvil. Pictures will have to wait as photography is a hobby of mine and my camera needs to be cleaned out. In graduate school I am studying Museum Studies, while in college I got a Major in Anthropology and a Minor in History, hopefully I can get a job in a museum, at least that is the goal.

No. This is actually the first I have heard of them.

Hello. My name is Matthew a graduate student from in Boley, Oklahoma and I have been forging for a few years. While I am a new member to the site I have been a avid visitor for about the past year. I just figured it was about time to join this forum to get into contact with blacksmiths and to try and improve my forging. I have not had a lot of time recently to forge due the lack of rain, wind and my studies, but am trying to schedule some more free time this Fall to forge, and hopefully take part in a nearby craft fair.