jarrett

Awesome! That worked great. I'll have to get after it now and digest this. Thanks.

I have attempted to follow the links for the Vorhoeven document in several of the posts on the forum and in the stickies and blueprints. They all appear to be broken now. If anyone has this document on file, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Great blade

Thanks for the hints. The rinsed in water to get rust remover off. The alcohol was an evaporative to diplace and remove all water from the small parts and hard to get to places to ensure they were completely dry. Probably a good call on the linseed it gets gummy even after a wipe down. I'll use some mineral oil and then the dessicants in the case.

I have inherited a shoe box of my Grandpa's pocket knives. Some are Case, Imperial, Schrade, off brand. I want restore them a bit, keeping them original and then put them in a display case to give to my Dad. These knives were a carpenter's pocket knife and some have chipped blades, or cracked and stained handle material. That is not an issue. The problem is the rust on the blades. Here is what I've done so far. Soaked them in a rust remover, and rinsed. Then buffed lightly and rubbed out with a brass brush and q-tips. Resoaked and then rinsed in water and then alchohol. They begin to rust again, though. Here is what I'm think I'm going to do. Get them clean as possible (patina doesn't bother me, as stated I wan't them to retain the worn look) then soak in Linseed oil for a few days. Remove and wipe as much off as possible. This should not leave much of a film or oiliness on them after it dries and once in the case, they should be good to go. Right? Also, the linseed oil won't harm or discolor any of the handle materials, brass, etc. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Those are great. The Army doesn't issue them to us any more. They give us knives but they are vendor supplied.(benchmade, CRK, smith and wesson, etc) Still good knives but outsourced.

Great information. The splitter I've got is a commercial one with 20 ton press. It moves relatively quickly, and one advantage over the presses powered by bottle jacks(even the larger ones with air over hydraulic) to me is the ability to have forward and reverse motion without turning a pressure release screw. Just kicking the ideal around.

I was considering the same thing. I have access to a log splitter with a 20 ton press. It would not be difficult strengthen the beam or add a platform with guides on either side similiar to a free standing hydraulic press. Just wondering if you had developed this any further.

I wanted a multi purpose setup. It requires a couple of minutes to change over but this is what I did. Purchased a 6x48 belt grinder with a 9 inch circular grinder. Its made by Delta. Has a 1 HP motor. The machine works great. Then I built a frame to set on top of the platen for the 48" belt which added an idler wheel so I can use 2x72 belts. It works great. I have (like many of the posts i've read) had to make some adjustments. I'll probably continue to refine it. It has a good slack belt area and I added a removable platen. I'm planning on adding another bracket/bearing setup to cary a contact wheel instead of the platen later. The 4" idler wheel I used works pretty well for light contact work. It is rubber and was given to me by a friend. Works well. Oh yeah, I use the tracking wheel on the base grinder for the 2x72 belt as well. Materials are primarily square tubing and some angle iron. i like the square tubing for ease and availabilities of welding surfaces. Not perfect but a good start. To this point I have not applied enough pressure to bog it down or break any belts.

Greetings. I have been toying with knife making since I was about 12. Made my first knife then which was a file ground down and attached to a deer horn base by pressure only. It was a gift for my dad. I've still got it. I have tinkered with making knives since then but never gotten serious about it. I accrued about 60 days of leave last year and have been off for the last month or so and most of my days have been spent working on knives. In truth, mostly study and research. I've made a few with good results and am hooked. This is great to finally be doing something I've wanted since childhood. I have learned much on this site. Thanks for all the advice and guidance. I'm certain I'll have more questions as I go along. Hopefully I will be able to contribute somethin as well.

Thanks for the information. I've searched around the net and talked to a few local knife makers. I have the advantage of living in an area rich with quality blade smiths. Several Masters blade smiths. In the future I'll use a pressed fit and a joint bond like JB Weld.

This is my first post. Just as I am finishing up my first blade. Have been interested in this trade for years and finally jumped in. Have had some issues but most can be fixed with iimproving my technique. When I silver soldered my guard (brass onto 5160 steel) two things happened. The fit needed to be better because I've got some voids. I'll improve that next time. My issue is the use of the acid flux. After the the baking soda water bath and extended rinsing, I had some flash rusting. I want to find an acid free flux to use when Soldering so I can avoid this and prevent any future acid rusting because of inexperience soldering technique. I plan to use a pressed fit in the future to avoid the voids. Any suggestions on the flux?