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I Forge Iron

alex L

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    wasuau wi
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    welding iron work bio fuels

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  1. silica carbide recipe for steel. 50% silica carbide 50% millilte/grog massive hydrolic pressure then fire to 1700c-1800c to fuse. none ferrous/ maybe ferrous fire temp 1600c and up. 50% fire clay 50% silica carbide.
  2. casting and handling molten metals is extremely dangerous and can kill or maim you instantly. all proper protective equipment should be worn the whole time! i feel that there is a large mix of people that both buy and make there own crucibles on here. and i think it would be a good idea to share resipies. a simple ceramic crucible is basically a pot maid of fire clay grog and sum fluxing agent, resipies very greatly. clay graphite, usually maid to melt steel., but not always. the people that have carbon increase from this kind is most likely due to it not having a flux that protects the graphite allowing it to give up a carbon atom at 700f plus. the clay is a binder and the graphite also a part binder then silica carbide usaly added to reduce shrinkage and increase strength, silica carbide is mainly silcarb with graphite as the binder. formed under 350tons and about 4000 degrees. i use clay graphite my self for melting iron. ive had no carbon pick up in 3 melts now. using borasilicate as my filler binder. the flux agent is usually a mineral ,chemical or the like that melts at a lower temp and basically glues everything together. if any one has a silica carbide resipie would be great to know. Making crucibles is part pottery and part science.
  3. theory is simple. fact is its more like art. going from iron ore to steel in one shot. lot of math. if you have iron oxide all you would need to know is the weight of oxygen that is in it. then add that much carbon to make pure iron, and lots of heat. by product co2 and iron. any extra carbon makes steel. under 2% but just the theory. i my self am struggling to get the mix right. get wrought iron or cast iron. no usable steel yet. so at part where trying to turn the cast into steel. last run dident dilute the cast iron enuff still really brittle.
  4. i used weld coat nickle 55 and stoody 2110. if that helps any.
  5. wish my anvil stand was that nice. good job dave!
  6. Vulcan anvils have a cast iron body and a thin steel face. the edges where chirped bad lost an in of face in center.. both cast and the steel had chirped away.so to fill in the cast iron 55 nickle rod a good rod as it has better impact strength and after chirped cast edges was filled out. the hardfacing will stick to the nickle with no problems, so then could run the stoody 2110 no problems over the whole face. nickle 55 is better than nickle 99. 55 has more iron sticks better to cast and steel.
  7. nickle 55 to build up the edges and stoody 2110 in to layers for top has to be machined yet. as welded the rebound is a little better than before.
  8. ive refurbished two anvils now and it you know what your doing be ok the pre and post heat are hugly important! but for a cast steel anvil you have to re harden it for that id send it out to a heat treat company. for cast iron body and steel face you have to normalize the cast after welding. and cast body anvil you do run the risk of a major crack happaning from casting defects. but it can be done. i maid an alo into a decent lump of good iron and repaired an old 150lb volcan brand so have alot more thicker face than it had. and build up the badly worn edges. a new anvil 800 to 1700. repaired 200 to 450.
  9. sure give me sum time an ill clean the rust off of the ones got laying around.
  10. that said does any one know how to get the widening near the tip or why its there? fairly long slender blade then it wides at ruffly the 1/4th end back down to the tip. to me it looks like metal is forge welded there. thoughts or places i can find it? and dont say google it ive tryed and found little into. i have watched that documentary and loved it. only blades other than bronze ive maid have been simple mild steel what may pass as long swords. and pole blades, spears. and that doesent include knifes ive maid. most of my iron work is decorative. currently been working on forge welding, got a spring steel billet ready for finishen a file knife to be finished and a billet of a 36 to get drown out as my practice before i make the real blades.
  11. haven't commented bout the blades i plan to make but yes thomas is correct!! i have no need or want to do cast steel daily. i do howevor wana make steel from the blooms ive maid. and my final project is a shimara killed the spelling but a Persian curved sword, then a viking long sword and maybe a long sword. ive seen it done many times but never asked the right questions. as far as people trolling get over your selfs, just was hoping to use the knowledge of others to avoid sum pit falls. and i will look into the woots steel sounds like the kinda person i need to know.
  12. so basically no one will say anything for fear for liability... wow. well trial and error then.
  13. look up green casting sand real ezy to make and cheap to make. ive used it for a long time from lead to bronze!

  14. silica carbide is great first crucible for most metals. not steel or iron! for ferruse melts super salamander clay graphite. 

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