Northumbrian

Well given how I had already started the wooden stand, thought I'd finish it just so I can get the work height sorted at least. This week I've got loads of deliveries arriving with building materials, which some of which need to go in the workshop. So not much in the way of time to make up a proper stand. Anyway here's some pics... Oh, it looks like i got the height almost right.

Ooooh, looking forward to seeing this

The T-Section I have is 60x60x8mm, so structurally it'll be fine. I've also got a load of Cork sheeting... Any good?

OK, so nothing in particular, various uses, but not one specific reason to use box section over T-section?

The above photos of tripod stands, all appear to use box section for the legs, is that for any particular reason, or just what was available. Getting box section here, with a decent wall thickness is not easy. I have some heavy T-section which I think would do nicely. But I just want to check if there is a particular reason to use box section. Such as filling with sand or something...

Well that's just dropped a spanner in the works Arghhh, so many ways to skin a cat....

My plan was to make a box out of 10mm Plywood, that will have in the base, 3" thick end grain timber, butchers block type of thing. The idea being, as it needs to be mobile, the chances of busting a base made from 3" thick end grain timber, is less likely than a plywood bottom. Next Dry sand will fill the space half way up, then the thicker end grain block, which the anvil will sit upon, slides down into the box, resting on the sand. The height adjustment, will be via holes in each face of the plywood box, which will be capped when the work height is established. Just picked up some more angle iron today, to make the frame. Photos will follow shortly.

Nice, very nice

I've started working on a stand, working from the guidelines in this thread. Anvil height, how can you tell if it is the right height However, this stand was posted in that thread, I think I'll pinch this idea, but without the tool holders. I need to work first to figure out where & what I want or need. I also need the stand mobile, as I don't have a fixed site for my forge yet. So I will need to modify the design a little to make it mobile.

This is why I joined the forum, to learn... Oh, I will do

Well, you kind gents were good enough to guide me in the right direction, it would be rather rude of me to disregard the advice given.

Hey fellas, sorry for not coming back in response to your comments, just been so busy over the last few weeks. I don't have any neighbours to upset, so working in the mornings or over night is certainly an option. Mind you I think my Wife would have something to say about working too early in the morning This is what I have to work with, the concrete base is on a slop, but the top of the slop at the doors is level. so a mobile setup would work well here.

Been reading some posts on sand box stands, the idea appeals to me, as I can adjust my work height simply by adding or subtracting sand. Given, I'm just starting out this might be a sensible approach at this stage.

Thanks for the tip on noise reduction, Portugal is somewhat absent when it comes to certain things. I've just checked out the Fabreeka website, so I've got an idea of what you're talking about, see if I can find something like over here. I'm just going to take my time and wire brush by hand, With what I did last night, I can't see any markings at all, nothing. So it probably doesn't have any. Doesn't matter to me anyway. I've got the family history with the anvil and that's something many, including myself, find more interesting. So I'm not going to waste my time actively looking for any markings. That's not to say if any appear, I'll not work on cleaning them up. As per forge, not decided yet, but I'm just going to make up a quick one from the clay soil I have here. build up some side to it and use charcoal, as that far more abundant where I live. Although I may go gas later.

Smoggy, my uncle & I have the same tastes.... Led Zepplin, Guiness, & Single malt Whisky. Sorting him out a little thank you will not be a difficult task. As per working to micrometer standards, that's for my machines to do, not my hammers. I've got a load of old roof timbers, from the original workshop roof. It's all steel now. So I'll make the base for the anvil from those. Bore holes right though with an auger bit, pass some thread bar through, and bolt the whole lot together, so the anvil sits on end grain. I'll make a tee shaped wooden analogue for the anvil, and use that to get the work height right. rather than busting my back lifting the anvil on and off, to get the height of the base right. More photos to follow, everything I do, as I learn, I will post on here.

Well, my plan is to wire brush, by hand over the next week or so, take my time, no rush. Hot metal, doing the job, make sense to me. I am a welder & machinist, but I have a passion for quality tools, and an attitude of I don't know everything, someone else will always know more than I. I learnt toolmaking from a toolmaker who died on the job aged 107, started work at 15, and never took a day off. The mind set he instilled in me is you will never know everything, you can always learn more, life is a journey, enjoy it.

Oh, I forgot to mention. The anvil is from the coal mines up in the North East of England, Northumberland, where my Father & his two brothers worked. My fathers youngest brother, was a farrier for the pit ponies, and this is his anvil that he used. So it looks like I'm carrying on a family trade, so to speak. Mind you, I will not be shoeing any of my horses

Ah ok, I ask, as I've seen a few people doing that, and I must say did not feel right to me, but as I know very little about anvils, I had to ask. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

Many thanks for all the comments so far, so the general jist is, to clean it up, but don't grind or resurface, leave it be, work with it, then see how I go after a year or so. Out of curiosity, nothing more, what's your opinion on hard facing rods, you know to say build up the surface etc... I'm only interested in opinions here, I'm going with your advice, just a question that's all.

Ah, ok, so just leave it as is, work with and see how I feel after a year. Hey I'm happy with that. What about giving it a good wire brushing? You know clean all that crap off it. Anyway, more pics as promised

I can't see any stamping on it, that's not say there aren't any under the paint. I was checking out a few Youtube vids on refurbing an anvil, and one of them was a Peter Wright, as soon as I clocked it I ran out to the shop. To check, and well ya buggerman, it might just be. Also quickly put a rule over it, the top's going to need some work, about three dips that'll need grinding out. Nothing too dramatic. I'll sort out some better pics later this evening.

It has literally just arrived so not had a chance to put a straight edge on it yet Any thoughts on what it is? You know who made it.

I've not been on for a few weeks, just got a lot on at home at the moment, building works etc. Anyway, Finally got an anvil today. It was my uncles, didn't know he had it, well he was more than happy for me to have it. He'd rather I had it and used it than it sit his shed for another 20 years or more. The only problem was, it was over 1600 miles away in the North East of England, and I am in Southern Portugal. After a lengthy journey in the back of my parents car, it's finally here. It's a good 60kg, possibly 70kg. I don't think it's much more than that as i was able to lift it on my own out of the car, and on to a sack trolley. Now I just need to make a base for it, and clean it up, which, any comments or suggestions would be most gratefully received. Anyway, I'll post more pictures as I go, as well as the forge build and making of my tools. But, it's coming together now

The little snakes I've had visiting, well lets just say, it would be interesting to watch them try and eat the rats. They're somewhat on the wee side, and the rats more like a small cat.

Cheers Smoggy, knocked it up with a cheap tool cabinet trolley for the drawers, and Plywood shelves for the taper tooling.