kogatana

I don't think the admin (Glenn and helpers) is abusing of his power. I wouldn't even use the word power here, but monitoring (or find another more appropriate): the admin is here to prevent the train from derailing. If one of us attempts a sabotage, he is notified his actions are inapropriate. If he persists, well, it is for the sake of the remaining passenger that the one be sanctioned. We can't forget we are a comunity here, some people of IFI are not even american citizen, some live oustide the USA. Someone has to maintain a proper code of conduct, and have it respected. Yes of course no edit is not convienient, yes, probably all of us finds it inconvinient, starting with me when yesterday I was looking everywhere the edit button, thought my computer had eaten it. But it is natural to keep the safeguards in place for some time after some troubles happened. Cheers from Taiwan Ludo

Ok, this answers my questions asked in "a new meaning to hand forge hammers". Sad things happening (deleting all posts, the ban, the loss of info, many threads appearing choped...).

Hey, Is Alan really banned? How come we don't see his postings anymore? Without his first post this thread loses some of its pepper! Anyway. I come maybe a bit late in the discussion to add something. Instead of hand made, which as we have said here is a "melting-pot" notion, I would suggest the term "traditionally made". That implies to define what traditional is: a tradition now and here may not be the tradition 50 years ago there. I'll try to explain more what I mean by traditionally made. In Japan, twice a year, there's a meeting called kezuroukai, which is mainly oriented toward woodworking, but since the woodworking tools in Japan are deeply linked with the toolmaker, some blacksmith are always present at this meeting, and some of them will show various blacksmith technic. Since it is not convienient to bring a power hammer or a big grinder on site, each tool is done entirely according to traditional technics, and the "made by hand" expression takes all its meaning there. The making of a chisel for example need one or two stricker, then the shaping of the tool is done entirely with files and with special scrapers (the sen). Ok, the traditional method nowaday would imply the use of a power hammer, and as Dave mentioned earlier, there's very few shops that do not use a power hammer. What we've been talking about is similar to hand-made in woodworking. It's fun to cut down the tree yourself, rip it yourself with a big saw and let it dry. Then you plane the planks, dress them and resaw them and eventually you can start fine woodworking. All this without one electron spent. But while it is very formative, at some point you may start using some surfacer, thickener, band saw and else, because it saves time (I personally have none of the above mentioned machines but used them). I like the hand-made exercises, and since it's not anytime soon that I'll have access to a power hammer (lack of place in my appartement), I think I'll use my own power and will thus remain limited to small projects. But power hammer or not, as it has been mentioned in this thread, as long as it is not mass produced, it still has the "man/hand made" touch. And that is what counts most. Ludo

Hello Below is Ed's reply to my inquiries regarding MIG, TIG and plasma cutter. I thought I would start a new thread, because now following his advices I might begin with an O/A torch. In Taiwan I have had a short introduction to the basics on using an O/A torch, I cut a piece of railtrack with it. Now, rather than asking my wife to ask her friend's husband to lend me his torch, if I want to acquire one what should I look for? In Taiwan most brands are imported from Japan. I have checked some auctions also from the US, and there seem to be a quite popular "Victor" brand, so much so that it is being copied. Does anyone knows if a kit (torch, regulator,...) from the US is 100% compatible with oxygene and acetylene tanks usd in Taiwan? Is there an international standard regarding the matter? Now for my needs: cutting (up to quite thick: still haven't finished my small railtrack anvil), welding (iron, steel). Thanks for any advices. Ludo (Taiwan)

In China there's some limitation on the internet access, but not in Taiwan. From all the google links you mentioned, only one gives me access to the full book + download: "The Manufacture of Steel: Containing the..." I tried to search for the title from the search page but with the same result... Too bad, so many resources I can't access! Ludo

This is all helping, thank you. Now I see more clearly where I should go. JWBironworks, you're right, if I could have a basic course in welding and blacksmithing that'd be great. But in Taiwan there's no such things. Totally different from the US where you one can find a course in almost anything you might be interested in (let's limit the scope to metalworking/woodworking related courses). So to learn blackmsithing, I watch (Japanese woodworking-tool makers), read (books, IFI) and go slowly (built my mini forge, heated some iron and hammered it to get the feeling). For welding, well, I used an arc welder once when I was 13yrs old (that's a long time ago!). Here in Taiwan, I used an O/A torch under the guidance of a craftman to cut a piece of railtrack. Ed, I take your message that an O/A may be more usefull/cheaper than a MIG welder. And by the way, I'v just found out that the wikipedia has some good starting points to understand welding: Welding - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Ludo

Hello From what I read on IFI, a welder is very usefull. Last time I was wandering in a hardware and tool shop I was looking at the welders. I saw boxes that looks alike to me, but one of them was a plasma cutter and was rather expensive (equivalent to 800US$). Now here is my point: what is hidden behind the notions of MIG and TIG, what can I do with a plasma cutter (can it cut that railroad track I've spotted, can it weld...) All in all, I couldn't find a beginer guide to welding, and I'd need your advices on where to start, what can we do with what (can we have a TIG, MIG and plasma cutter all together?) Ludo (Taiwan)

How come I can't see most of the book? For example on the following that habu68 mentions in the very first post, I have no download option, and no clickable content. Hand-forging and Wrought-iron Ornamental Work - Google Book Search The page I see (Firefox) when I just click on the link is totally different from the screen snapshot that Mark (chanterman) shows us... The page I see corresponds to "no preview available", refering to Google help (Google Book Search) Ludo

Strine, Ok, I get it now. I think the trick is also to find the appropriate size and shape (tapered bar or not tappered, cylinder, how thin/thick) versus the size of the tap to make, isn't it? I'll try to experiment. henerythe8th, Well my goal is to actually make the tap and then hopefully the die. I know the link you mentioned, but the equipement requires a router that I don't have. And if you go back to my previous post on the topic, you'll see a link to some tap and die that are prohibitively expensive. Wood thread cutting tool and Dowel Maker Ludo

I have found the book from Roy Underhill, and a lot is explained exept I couldn't really understand how to forge the tap. The author mentions using a U shaped fuller to form the "blades". What is a fuller, and how should I do then to get the "blades" onto my steel cylinder (or bar stock)? Ludo, Taiwan

Strine, Interesting! What is this wood you used to make the bolt and nut? It does seem that your tap and die did a great job (well you did the job). So if I read you well, this first lesson is for the tap. While reading you I've drawn the following schematic. Is that what you mean? Now my question is how to you make the 3 or 4 blades sharp so that they cut wood? Are they really blades or should we see them more as scrapers? Aaron, Yes I've heard about Roy. I wished I could watch his shows, it would be a great idea to make them available on DVD! Is there any address where to send him this suggestion? I will check in which book he explains the process. irnsrgn, I know about thread boxes, but I wanted to make myself the size I want. And check out this link: prices are in the 100s of euros range. Wood thread cutting tool and Dowel Maker Ludo

Hello How would you make the tools (tap and die) to produce threads in wood? Is this a blacksmith type of job (at least the heat treatment should) or more the one of a moulder or machinist? Ludo

Hi Thomas, Thanks, though you ask for details, your questions bring me answers. I would have quite a lot of shaping, but now this would be one of my first project (my forge is almost but not yet ready). And I don't have any hammer eye drift: would you have any picture to show me the tool? Maybe making the drift would be a good start, it seems to me that hammer forging is not for beginers. For heat treatement, I have had an introduction to it in Japan (for a kitchen knife). Ludo

I've found an old hammer and would like to reshape it. Originally it was symetric but I cut about 1" at one end. The cut was rather easy. Now how to pursue the job? Should I grind it to shape, or heat it (will need a lot of heat for this 3lbs of weight) and hammer it? Then, what about the heat treatement? Ludo

About the Tim Lively knifemaking: simply put, it is the one that told me: "you can make it". Go for it, if you're beginer, it will teach you tons. Ludo

Welcome from Taiwan, Bendik, good road you are chosing, that is to be a blacksmith apprentice. I almost went to Trondheim for an internship, eventually landed in Stockholm... Ludo

I've received encouraging welcomes from the nice folks of IFI, since you've been lurking for some time you know here is a good place. Welcome, from a yet to be blacksmith! Ludo

Hi Barny, Interesting! Gyroscope is a cool device to study. But I wouldn't forge it, rather as Dodge suggested, you'd have to use a lathe. Gyro has to be very precisely assembled. Maybe you could make a mold for the inertia wheel, and pour brass in? To you plan to have it motorised or launch it with just a cord? Cheers from Taiwan Ludo

Brian and ApprenticeMan thanks for your messages! Well, if any one of you happen to come over to Taiwan, I'd be more than happy to show you around what is nice to see... and of course to listen to your advices for building a forge. Today we (wife, baby son and I, the dog stayed at home) went near Taipei to see a blacksmith shop. Bad luck the guy wasn't at his shop, we just met his wife. I asked where to find an anvil and blacksmith hammers, she didn't know. In Taiwan the art of blacksmith is getting extinct. So no anvil. No hammer. But patience. I have carefully seen how a tong is made and this afternoon went to a construction site gather some steel bars (those used for reinforcing concrete). This could make good tong, couldn't it? Now remains the anvil, blower, forge... If you search ebay Taiwan for an anvil, or blacksmith tools, you won't find anything. But if you're after computers,cameras or expensive bags and purses, clothes, there you go! Not for me... Regards Ludo

Hi Chuck and Sam! Thanks for your welcome I've spend the last 2 days burried into the forum and I'm burning to start. But right now I have ... just nothing (no tool, no forge, no charcoal). Tonight instead of going to the seaside with our 20mths old son as my wife suggested, we might as well go to where I plan to set my forge, and maybe begin with the first step: making charcoal. What I find difficult is to get started: find the tools, the place... and some friends to learn from. It's no doubt that friends are nearby on the forum, the chat on tuesday night was a real encouragement for me. Ludo

Hi Thomas, Thanks for your welcome. The latest olympic games TaeKwendo golden medalist was Taiwanese. But the sport is from Korea... Ludo

Jens, as a non-metallurgist, you still have a more than decent scientific knowledge;) ! You mention the clay acts as a heat sink. I would have thought it is more an isolant, it doesn't easily conduct heat, does it? Maybe what makes the whole difference is the water content... With enough water, clay will absorb the excess of heat. A nice thermodynamic exercise. Is there other ways (than clay or mud) to prevent the part of a blade to heat? Ludo

Thanks! Richard, you'd greet someone in Chinese by just saying nin hao (您好) Jens, I'm ready for the chat (well, just quietly listening), thanks for the link... Ludo

Hello I'm writing from Taiwan, and it is after seeing blacksmiths in Japan that I've got bitten. On a woodworking tool forum, a good soul recently explained how to make ones own charcoal. So now it's decided I'll get started (probably a big part of the job is done: decide!). I have found a place, need some basic tools and an anvil. In the meantime I'll make charcoal and build a small forge. PS: I've just found out that the user oakwoodforge, the member of the tool forum who explains about the charcoal is also writing here. Hi Jens. Ludo