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Posts posted by bubba682
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NIce work..
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On 1/3/2017 at 5:12 PM, ThomasPowers said:
*Old* anvils were made up to almost 2000 years or so before cast iron was a used material in Western Europe. Real wrought iron was the standard from the start of the iron age----minus the odd meteorite used as an anvil... up until after cast steel was the next great thing in the 1700's. In the 1800's a method of casting cast iron onto a steel face plate was patented and used to make Fisher and Vulcan anvils. Towards the end of the 19th century and into the early 20th century cast steel bases were forge welded to regular uppers and later to cast high carbon steel uppers and some completely cast high carbon steel anvils were produced---so you could have a wide spread of processes used to make anvils happening simultaneously by different makers in different locations.
Since cast iron and cast steel and cast steel the material, (used for faces), were all used at some time or another on anvils; just using the term "cast" isn't very good for specifying which material you are actually referring to.
THxs for the info i like learnin somthing new everyday i never seen alot of real wrought iron except at the fortress of Louisbourg they employed alot of blacksmiths there in the 60/70's to help rebuild alot of the old iron works of the fort.The forge there is right out of the history books its somethin to see.
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WE rang in the new year the old fashioned way here i let a salvo go from my 243 and the neighbors were firing there rifles off as well....
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WATS A.S. welding stand for tanglediver ,i never welded wrought iron we dont see it in industrial work at least i havn't and ive welded in just about every industrial type job out there in the last 27 yrs.
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MY mistake there BGD i was under the impression that the old anvils were cast iron bases so what is the age of the anvil.So now that its not cast yeah gouge it and weld it but innersheild yuck thats like burning 6010 forever lol.
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Shipping prices suck in Canada i just got in some hardy tools from the states the shipping and exchange nearly killed me lol...
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I would v out the crack with a grinder to a bout a 1/2 '' both sides and deep as well.Then i would tack it on all four sides first the run pass's by goin oppisite sides one pass at a time so it doses'nt pull out of square and repeat this till its welded out.7018 is not the rod for cast , i think its a 152 cast rod i cant remember the brand name . You'll get out of using a pre and post heat it digs l;ike 6011 and use's the same heat.They work great on cast I would also sweat the crack out just enough to get the moisture out when your tackin about 200 degrees.
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I tightened alot of things up tonight and it took alot of the bounce out a few more alterations it should be tamed lol im goin to anchor it to the floor as well.
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I just built a hammer im getting alot of bounce i got it mounted to 4x4 and 3/4 plywood im wondering if you are getting bounce im thinking about putting anchor bolts into the floor how is your hammer mounted.
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Solid piece of red maple i got a buddy who has a portable saw mill and his own wood lot it was an end piece im not fussy for the top rails i might change them but basically i just wanted to try a few differant tecniques.I like the loops between the legs cause there ribbited in the centers there hard to see in the pics.Thxs for the likes its the first real forge job i did...