Brazer

Frosty, I got the mini T burner operating. I adjusted in the forge. Since I got 2" of ceramic blanket and 1" ceramic rigid fiber board on ceiling, the 4" nipple and coupling reaches the formed cone in the rigid ceramic board. I just dropped the burner in up to the tee, on my vertical burner holder. I used the 1" rigid fiber board on sides and top to be stiffer. Included pics show burner at 5# and 10# pressure. I only had a .023 mig tip for now. Nozzle is just half the diameter center of the 3/4" tee. I should get a needle valve to adjust the gas at the final entrance to burner. Sometimes it seems to burn a little better when I close one side of tee momentarily. Any other pointers you can give me Frosty, would be appreciated. Is it OK, or should I keep playing with the tuning. By the way, instead of keep shortening the mig tip, I use thin washers for shims were the 1/8" threaded male end is if need be, to shorten the tip in the burner. Cheaper that way.

Thanks Frosty. I will proceed with the Mini T burner tomorrow and report back when complete. What mig tip size should I use to start? I intended to use pipe nipples to get stainless gas supply hose away from top of forge. I should have entered from an angle off the top.

For it to burn, all the holes except for the top half holes works somewhat. Increasing the tip to .030 burned best, but the flame blows down on floor inside, with a circular dark ring. I will try to build a mini burner if that's what it takes.

(On the cutting the coupling in half), that was for something else I was writing down about a table leg fix. Sometimes my mind works out of sync with my typing. When I read it this morning, I asked myself, What the heck is cutting the coupling do? Age has it own humor.

Frosty, If I use the burner ratios from your 3/4" Tee burner, I should adjust as follows: 1- 3/4"x1/2" black tee 1- 4"x 1/2" black nipple 1- 1/8" x1/4" flare fitting 1- Mig tip Approximate size .023 ? 1- 1/2" pipe protector or cut a coupling in half Have I got it right?

I am a retired plumber with many tools except for a lathe and a mill. I would appreciate anything you can help me with. I have the expertise for firearms since 1970 and have the mechanical ability to fabricate anything I can buy cheaper. Also the resources to junk the lousy burner but use anything else. Let me know what to get. I can get any gas pipe fittings necessary.

Here are some pics Frosty. The forge is similar to the discontinued Diamondback one burner forge. Frosty, Will you let me know what I need to make a 1/2" T burner?

I got my forge built. Had some 1/8" steel plate laying around and made this forge before I started on my 5 gal propane tank forge. Interior measurements are 4 1/2" wide x 9" deep x 3 3/4" high. It has 3" 2300 degree ceramic blanket on top and bottom, with 2" insulation on sides. Front is open, back has size same opening as the front, but a steel door with 1" ceramic board coated with satanite closed. Got 1/4" satanite on interior, and when I get the burner running right, bring up to temp to final cure before coating with Metrikote IR. Problem is that I have a Goede 130,000 BTU burner, with the 30# reg. The mig tip orifice appears to be an .021, and it only likes rel high pressure and don't burn right for beans. I changed to a .023 and it works better, but in the forge the flame huffs at times with 5-8 lbs pressure. I tried an .030 mig tip and it works better outside the forge. I will try it in the forge tomorrow and see if it is any better. Is lower pressure better in this 162 cu inch forge? Am I over thinking this, or should I get a z burner. I'll post some pics tomorrow. By the way I read just about every burner 101 and researched so much I can't make up my mind.

I inquired about the Devil forge about they informed me the lining is not coated with anything to prevent airborne fibers. He told me if you want to coat the lining do it yourself. I wondered why the price was so low, and the pictures appear to have no coatings.

You are right Frosty, it's into the wind Thanks for making me feel at home.

You guys aren't as bad as the people I worked with over the years. I don't let any one or anything get to me at 70+ yrs old. I can dish it out too. One thing happens to people who eventually get old. They all forget and like to be reminded of the things that get vague in their brain. I'm one of them. I enjoyed the jabs guys, and still want to be accepted in this group. Just remember, (Never pee in the wind.)

Thank you for you input

This is what I mean on burners I am used to

I understand you all are very knowledgeable about the complete gas forge systems however I asked about the choke adjustment because the burner I got had the choke before the gas orifice. I should have mentioned it is a Goede stainless steel foundry/forge burner,with 30PSI regulator,gauge,130000 BTU When I was setting it up in the vise to adjust burner for best flame, the holes had to be almost completely closed and when I opened more air it goes out. When I adjusted the choke from the front to rear adjustment I got a better flame. It seems there are too many holes before the burner. I read all 6 pages on (Burners 101) and just asked if I got it right. All the burners I have worked on in my years had a belled orifice port installed with the Air adjustment (Choke) in a circular disc to turn to allow adjustment. They all where behind the gas orifice. I know now that I could have made the sucker cheaper and better with what I learned from the forum, but after purchasing it I am trying to use what I have to work with, and if it can't be adjusted good enough, I will follow you advice and make my own.

Sorry to put a few people out when have a question about burners I never worked on. I have been a plumber for 45+, and all gas appliances are said to have primary air adjustment. I am reluctant to ask any question about anything now. I was always told the dumbest questions are the one's that you never ask. I just wanted some input after reading and looking at a real lot of gas forge plans to help me get better control of burner. Thank you for your time.

Should the air adjustment on a gas burner be behind the gas orifice or in front of the orifice tip for proper air gas mix?

I got my satanite from Cholmondeley Inc I done something right Qty Item Options Price 1 Satanite Refractory Mortar - 20 pounds (includes shipping and Insurance - USA) $58.45 USD Amount $58.45 USD My blanket is 50 sq feet for $ 89 with shipping

I got my ceramic fiber blanket ordered for my propane tank forge build. If it helps anyone, I think I got a good price #8 1" x24" x 25' for $59.00 and $30.00 shipping. If it helps anyone I got it from ceramaterials.com I got Metrikote 2pints ordered from Wayne Coe I think I got a good deal. What do you think?