Ian Sayers

I can't tell from the pic, is the base actually square or is it flattened like a blade?

After some referencing, I'm thinking it's an old Peter Wright. If it is a PW, then it's almost certainly pre-1860, and likely pre-1852. The feet are ridged on top instead of flat, so that suggests circa 1852 or before. There is no "solid wrought" stamp around the middle weight number, so that also suggests pre-1860. The total absence of a trade mark is still weird. There is a picture of a pre-1852 PW in AIA that looks just like this one and has the same depression / parting line in the face in the same spot. The pic isn't good enough to make out any markings, but the flawed face and the sharp profile of the feet are identical.

It would help if you posted a better head-on pic of the throat showing the hole under the horn, and a better shot directly from the side, showing a cleaner profile of the hanging end. Another thing you can do is lay it on its side and coat it with oil and look at it from a low angle - the shininess can help you see very faint depressions that are hard to see otherwise. Hard to say what it is. I agree that the pattern and the shape and layout of the number stamps do look like a Mousehole, as well as the numbers being stamped instead of raised, but one issue I see is that there do not appear to be any dots between the numbers. Mousehole anvils nearly always have dots, or bullets, between the numbers, and the dots are usually quite deep, to the degree that the dots are sometimes the only visible marks left. Possibly Mousehole, but I would think it is more likely a minor brand and possibly the work of someone who learned anvil making at Mousehole and struck out on their own. It would be pretty heavy for a Wilkinson, most are considerably smaller, in the 150 lbs range. It would also be exceedingly rare for a Wilkinson to display the stone weight, almost all are noted in actual pounds, and I have only heard of 1 exception. If it is a Wilkinson, the makers mark would usually be on the other side, so look carefully for a mark that looks like a pair of crossed hot dogs. Other than that, I don't know what t tell you - There are a lot of little known brands.

I know anvil prices, and what I should pay for an anvil of a given quality and weight, but I I can't find any info about MacBell anvils or when and how they were made, which is what I'm after. They look decent, and the pattern is nearly identical to a Trenton swelled-face ferrier anvil, so maybe they were made by someone who started out at Trenton and struck out on their own... or they might just be a cheap copy...

That was the one I was looking at and he said he'd sell it for $500 without the stand. He claims it is not cast and has a good ring. I got a copy of anvils in america since the last post, but no mention of macbell anywhere.

I am fairly new to knife making and so far all of my experience is in stock removal. I want to move on to forging and I plan to use gas, but I'm wondering what advantages there are to having a heat treating oven in addition to a gas forge. Can someone help me understand the cons of using a gas forge for everything, and the added pros of having a heat treat oven? I'd also appreciate a little insight into the advantages of open end port forges vs forges with solid doors... I assume that with open ports I can heat longer pieces of metal and billets with welded-on handles, but I'm sure I'm missing the fine points if not the fundamentals... -Ian

I recently came across a MacBell 100# anvil. I don't really know anything about MacBell, or how their anvils stack up. Anyone have one? Does anyone have a copy of AIA they could look it up in?

I think metal tripod stands are the best. Yes, they cost more than stumps, but I like that I can get my feet under them and get in closer to the anvil when I want to. With a stump, you will have to stand a little further out and bend in over the anvil. I find it easier to find a comfortable posture and work long hours with a metal stand. A thin sheet of plywood between the stand an anvil will work good to dampen it. Some people like rubber, but I like plywood (I do like to put strips of inner tube under the feet though). If you really want to eliminate as much ring as possible, pack the legs with oil-soaked sawdust (I think it works better than sand to dampen vibrations).