natenaaron

1 hour ago, Kozzy said:

However, I'd strongly recommend saving up for alternatives--you can even get a good milwaukee porta-band used (very common at pawn shops) for about the same price or less as the chinese junk and it'll be a MUCH better saw.  

I had discounted the porta-band.  Just assumed the fixed unportable nature of the 4x6s made them more sturdy, thus more likely to cut straight.  I did see that Grizzly has a portable bandsaw that comes with a table.  I assume a table could be manufactured for the Milwaukee.  My goal is a square cut.

19 minutes ago, GoodThing Factory said:

huh, i thought you're supposed to bounce the anvil off the ball bearing?

Only if you want a true indication of how well the anvil rebounds.  Rough on the concrete though.

Now the big question, do they all suffer the same issues as the harbor freight?  Not sure I see much need to spend the extra for the same machine that will need the same fixes.

Been looking at the 4x6 metal bandsaw selections and I realized they all look alike.

JET, Harbor Freight, ENCO, Grizzly

I am assuming only the name is different.  Is this correct?

My forge is probably not intended for fine silver work, or I am not intended for fine silver work.  Either way I am without an anniversary present for my wife.

My wife is an avid reader so I thought it would be thoughtful to make her a special bookmark.  I order some PMC3 silver clay (Great stuff for people with zero silversmithing skills). rolled it out, embossed it with my special love you saying.  Added a couple other things, including our sons' finger prints.  I did everything I was supposed to do up to the firing.  It was too long to fire on the camp stove as I have done for small things so, me being me said "hey I have I forge".  I got the smallest flame I could from one burner.  All went fine, got the cherry red I was looking for, kept the piece moving and in less than two minutes I had a bubbling silver mass. 

Everyday is a learning experience. 

IMHO that guy is going to cause someone's death.

tell him that now

22 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Big factor in longevity is: can you get repair parts?Miller and Lincoln tend to support their products a LOT better/longer.

This is quite true.  I have a millermatic 185 which is a minimum of 16 years old.  No issue getting parts at all.

On 7/14/2016 at 7:36 PM, matto said:

I was thinking of the eagle on a 56 Chevy. Two up turned end wings. Hits both inter thighs at once.

Sounds like you were doing something on the hood you should not have been.

Very nice

I have a Cape Forge knife with switchable blades, an Allen Goodman knife and a few flexcut knives.

The cape forge is way stiff and I hardly use it.  I prefer, as do many carvers (I refer to myself as one very loosely) a blade with some flex.  The Allen Goodman knife is heads and tails a better carver than the others, and I stopped buying knives after I gt t one.  Take a look at carving knife profiles.  What you has wil be pretty tough to carve with.  Needs more point.  Some folks like the big belly on a blade.  I don't I I prefer straight.  Carving knives are a very personal thing.  A carver may have a hundred knives and other tools but they gravitate to one.  Go look at the guy's knives.  That will tell you what he likes to work with.

First and foremost that light is awe inspiring.  I mean dang!  Is that one piece of bent wood, bent lamination, or.....How did you do that?

Second.  Send without wiring.  Let the American electrician do the work.  Have the client give you name of the electrician, she will be using and then contact him directly. He will tell you what you need to do make it ready for him/her to work on.

On 7/14/2016 at 6:41 PM, Twilight Fenrir said:

My first impression was that it was about 130 lbs or so... didn't look at it very closely to be honest. At $75 I really didn't care. When I first loaded it into my car, my estimate jumped to 150+ lbs. And once I got it home, looked at it a bit more carefully, I'm leaning towards about 180 lbs. (I really need to pick up a cheap scale if i'm gonna keep buying anvils...)

This is just rubbing it in. 

On 7/17/2016 at 8:44 AM, Shade said:

Grind out a good vee, generally a 70° vee is normal for welding to get good access to the root of the weld, if you grind from the opposite sides of the anvil this will give you the best access with minimal grinding and welding.  Vee-ing out 4 sides is both not needed and just extra work.  I don't know if I would trust much of the previous welding done to it.  Also and this is important, you need to alternate welding one side then the other side on every pass this will keep any stresses equal and keep the weldment straight as you weld.

I would suggest some preheat, 200-250°F.

If you are stick (SMAW) welding start with E-6010 in your root passes.  This will aid you in getting good penetration and cleaning out impurities.  Peen the weld well after the first pass to reduce stresses.  Every pass from here on should be peened well.  In deep vees I use a tapered punch ground slightly round to do the peening.  The remaining passes can be run with E-6013, E-7018 or E-7024.  6013 would be the easiest to run and the cheapest route.  7018 rod is a low hydrogen rod and must be kept dry or you could get hydrogen embrittlement.  A proper rod oven will keep the rod at 250-300°F.  (an old fridge with a light bulb is useless, xx18 high titania flux is hygroscopic) I tend to steer people away from 7018 for that reason.  As mentioned 7024 is a fast fill, slow freeze rod and must be welded in the flat position and requires a 250 amp class or better machine so you can have the duty cycle you need also it is not a rod for the beginner as you can easily get inclusions in your weld.

If you MIG (SMAW) get a good 70S-6 wire, like Lincoln's L-56, and run with 75/25 argon carbon dioxide mix gas.  Again peen all your welds and alternate sides welding.  Welding in the flat position will help, if your machine is capable you can run spray transfer or pulsed spray modes, which require different gas mixes, and can be machine dependent. 

Wow.  Great response.

Awesome.  We adults can take a lesson from babies.  No matter how bad things are for them, they can generate a smile to melt the toughest of us.

SOmeone needs to sneak over scope out the haul and wait until it is lower than the dollar.  Still 1lb:1.3$.  Then we pounce.

Things are evil.  Had one come apart and skid off my face mask.  So far I have been very fortunate.  A carbide tooth on a stone cutting saw came off and took a chunk ot of the side of my glasses, then the cut off blade skidding off the face shield.  If I had the misfortune of Taking a direct hit I would be blind in both eyes.  I never take the guards off my grinders.

I've had chop saw abrasive disks come apart but not been hit by that shrapnel yet.  

i'll give the bandsaw more tweaking and see what happens.  I had not thought about the hardened metal situation.  

Maybe I am being too anal about accuracy, but anything is better than the abrasive junk.

always hang up on the phone company.  They are evil.

I have a vac for the saw dust that does well.  I do not do wood working and metal working in the same building and I won't use the vac system for metal.  Too much of a fire hazard.  I don't have an issue with the wood.  I want the accuracy and no abrasive dust.  I will use the misting thing though.

What a smile on a tough little girl.  On the knee mail list.

You and your family is on the list too.

I am looking for recommendations for dry cut chop saws.  I am getting away from the abrasive saws for two reasons.  first and foremost is the health issue posed by the abrasive.  I cut with a respirator on but I that dust is real fine and stays in the air for quite a while not to mention it getting stirred up.  The second reason is I am tired of inaccurate cuts.  I come from a wood working back ground and inaccurate cuts are embarrassing.  I borrowed a band saw and while nice I am not getting as accurate a cut as I want and it is just too big.  After lots of reading of reviews and descriptions the Dry cut saw might be he best answer to my situation.  I've never used one and no one I know has one so I can't see how they work.

Anyone here use one and have a recommendation

See, girls are trouble.  Boys are just stubborn.  At least so far.

3 hours ago, winebaby said:

Well xxxx, lol. 

Watch the language.  Glenn is does not tolerate potty mouths.

We all learn, it is when we stop that we should worry.  Even if it is not a "real anvil" I see several uses and besides the hardy hole.  Heck I use a rail road track and a couple big rounds as anvils.

How do they stay in, Friction? How strong are they?

15 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

There are a handful of posts concerning side blast forges, If I remember right Everthing Mac's side blast post has some of the best information, including an exert from an old manual concerning tuyere size and fire depth that Glenn posted and an illustration of a side blast cut away from the side posted by another member. I know I have described setting up a side blast for charcoal more than once, as they are a bit selective as to best set up. 

Thanks Charles.  This explains why I could not find information.  I was not searching side blast forge.

I appreciate you taking to time to explain.