Michael Cochran

I was thinking about the brick being nice because I could move them around some into different setups. That way one day I can forge out my new door pull or gate hardware in a bigger fire without having to start over like I'm doin now.

thanks for your help Charles.

Both, side draft and side blast. Previously my charcoal was bottom blast but I keep hearing and seeing side blast more and more. I would imagine that they are going to use much less fuel since the fire is a little more localized. I guess the trench forge you mention is what I'm going for I just didn't know the name. My 'hood' is made from old sheet metal from the body of an old washing machine and is 12"x13 3/4" roughly. I put a piece on the front closing it up a little, more for holding it square than anything, leaving an opening of about 8"x10".

i still haven't figured out how to shrink my picture down when I put them on here but I also posted the same question here.

i hope that answered your questions.

I'm rebuilding my old charcoal forge and run into a little bump. I'm going to use a Hofi style side draft hood and some old reclaimed firebrick. At the moment im unsure just how big to go since I'm not used to using firebrick, and I've never built a side blast forge. I mostly fool around at trying to forge knives and other small tools so I know I don't have to go too big but I messed up and built the hood before i finalized my forge design. I would upload pics but can't figure out how to resize them right now. The brick are 4 1/2" wide and 9" long, they were recovered from a fireplace and yes I know they probably won't hold up long but I have about 40 of them so I'm not too worried. I just hope someone can help enlighten me as to how big a place to build my fire. If it makes a difference, I plan on using a box bellows I'm currently working on as well as have the option for an electric blower for those days when I have too much going on to constantly pump the bellows. Feel free to ask any questions that I might have neglected to answer and I'll see if I can't figure out how to resize images so they don't fill the screen.

Thanks in advance.

I'll keep all that in mind, thanks, Frosty. I'll post pictures when I get done, hopefully it'll go together for me nicely.

I was trying to figure out an improvise swage after you mentioned using one. However, I never thought about tryin that but will definitely try it. I'm hoping the weather will be a little more cooperative this weekend than last. But you don't wanna hear me complain about the 'cold' here do you? Lol

I do have some square tubing in my junk heap, I think I'll try that and see what happens.

Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like I'm gonna have to try the can weld, heard of it never tried it.

Frosty, I am actually without a proper anvil right now. I have been looking for one within budget for the last 2 years every since I started smithing just haven't found one yet. That being said, I am usin a small section of old rail (3 really, different sizes for different tasks.)

If I use the soup can wrap will the tin inside the can affect the weld? Also, will the can eventually disappear as scale like I think it will? I kinda wanna be able to see the old nails in the finished project.

since my small gas forge will not reach welding temps I am rebuilding my charcoal forge. In the mean time im trying to figure out the better way to wrap steel bits to weld them. I have a project for a chisel of sorts for my father-in-law and wanted to use old materials we used at work. The main body will be old nails with a cutting edge made from a couple old sawzall blades (I do not recommend anyone use these as they are a pita but the work for me for some things). I tried a wire wrap to hold the nails together while all in line but cannot get the wire tight enough to hold properly. I have though about stacking them in a square where the layers alternate orientation and wrapping them almost like Japanese smiths did. My biggest issue here is I don't have rice paper nor do I plan on purchasing any if I don't need to. That being said should I use tracing paper or maybe just use some masking tape? As we all know after the paper come the ash which I can handle then comes the clay, any ideas about using plaster of Paris?

I know that's a long ramble and I know that what I want to do can be made much easier with ready made bar stock that I have but I want to make it all from junk. I think I'm looking to prove my abilities and validate my some of my eccentricities.

Any help would be appreciated.

Btw I have forge welded flat stock before so I know the basics there, and my gas forge is an old lined paint can with a mapp torch.